Dad had booked the Ritz Zxi some weeks back and it finally arrived. Here's the story.

Chronology:

Wednesday (Aug 5): Got a call from the Maruti dealer that our car has arrived in the stockyard. I had already told him that I want to do a pre registration inspection so I will need to see that car *before* he sends it for registration to the RTO.
He had already given us the engine and chassis number as soon as he was informed of dispatch by Maruti so I thought that was a plus on his side and there would be minimal chances of trying a switcheroo on us. And since Ritz is a new model there would be very less chances of getting an older model (Also I knew the dispatch date).

He said that we had 2 options - either we could go to the stockyard or he would get the car to the showroom anyway so we could see it there.
We opted for the second option since the stockyard is very far away.

Thursday (Aug 6): Went to the dealer and saw our car standing there. Did a thorough visual inspection plus checked the engine and chassis number as well as most of the points mentioned in the pre reg inspection thread on team-BHP.

The odometer was connected and showed 27 KM which I thought was pretty reasonable since the stockyard is at least 20 km away.

I had seen on one of the threads that some chap got a non alloy 5th wheel with his Zxi, so I made sure to check the spare as well.

Talked with the sales guy and he said that the car would be registered the next day and we could pick it up by evening if we wanted to. I told him that I want to do a thorough inspection and would like to take delivery in the morning. He agreed to that.

Saturday (Aug 8): Went in the morning at around 11 o clock with family. Did the paperwork in terms of getting the insurance note, receipts etc.

The sales person called a maintenance supervisor over to give us a demo. It was fairly detailed and covered most of the points in the PDI checklist. I covered the remaining points on my own and noticed a small scratch on the rear bumper which he promised to take care of. Rest everything seemed ok. Note the stress on "seemed"!

After the photo session we took the car and filled in 5 litres petrol for which they had given a coupon.

I had decided to change the stock tyres from the existing JK tyres to Michelin XM1+ (Thanks to Nikhilb2008 for his help and advice). So off I went directly to the tyre shop.

Imagine my consternation when I saw that one of the tyre rims was slightly bent!!
And this despite my so called inspection!!

So I obviously didnt upgrade that tyre and instead kept it aside and showed it immediately to the Maruti dealer. He agreed that it looked like a manufacturing defect and asked me to come with the tyre on monday and get it replaced.

Now for the driving experience:

After driving a WagonR for almost 10 years and 800s before that, this car feels very different. As many have attested, the engine is super smooth and quiet and peppy as well.

Things I liked:
1. Feeling of space in the cabin
2. Engine smoothness. As Ada mentioned in his review, one needs to look at the tachometer to reassure oneself that the engine is indeed running
3. Have to really keep a light foot on the accelerator. Speeds of 80-90 kmph are reached effortlessly
4. The tyres are really good and inspire confidence while cornering (hmm or is this due to the Michelins?)
5. The gearshift is good and each gear falls into place properly. Only reverse seems a bit stubborn at times.
6. Driving position is very comfortable and the height adjustment lever is a boon.
7. The steering to handles well and isnt as light as some other cars. It does allow you to feel the road and hence feel more in control.
8. Quality of stock ICE is average but it didnt have any trouble playing a number of MP3 CDs I had burnt.
9. The looks are suprisingly appealing and even the rear which is everyone's favourite bugbear looks much better in real life than in photos and it has started growing on me already.

Things that could have been better:
1. Clutch seems a bit hard and has a lot of play. Might be a problem with just my car. Can other Ritz owners please provide feedback.
2. I dont know if its the ABS or something else, but braking occasionally produces a kind of groaning noise.
3. The headlights are a big let down. Though the front and rear fog lamps are a plus.
4. Where's the engine temperature gauge???
5. I would have preferred a regular fuel gauge than the digital one
6. The boot space or rather the lack of it (yeah I know, and I want the moon too!!)

Overall its a very good car and well worth the money spent. I think Maruti has a winner on its hands. Now time will tell whether it ages gracefully or develops issues (read rattles and squeaks)

One interesting thing I learnt from the sales person was that its the Petrol top end model which is more in demand than the Diesel variant.

Next steps:
Accessorize, Accessorize, Accessorize: I just got the rubber mats and mud flaps from the dealer.
Follow up with Maruti dealer to get the tyre replaced
Follow up with Maruti dealer to get the scratch touched up or bumper replaced
Check out the FE
Oops. I missed the color - Its "Silky Silver" as dreamt up by the Maruti marketing Guys!
Will post some photos soon.

hiiii friends ..i am soory i couldnt upload the latest content but wait for a day i will upload every thing and keep u updated

Spotted Toyota Fortuner

guys.

Saw this car on Hosur Road when I was driving into Bangalore yesterday.

Tried hard to get closer and take better pics but the driver seemed to have noticed me doing so and sped away.

Regards

New Volkswagen Polo revealed

seen here for the first time in a billboard advertising outside the Geneva auto show venue (which begins tomorrow) is the first picture of vw's all new polo hatch, a version of which will also make it in india by VW from their chakan plant.

Maruti Ritz!

Maruti is on a roll; the Ritz is their 7th new launch in 4 years (after the Swift, Zen Estilo, SX4, Grand Vitara, Swift Dzire and A-star). Maruti doesn’t seem to have a problem with product overlap either : The Ritz is the 7th Maruti hatchback you can buy today, and the 6th in the 3 – 5 lakh rupee range (2.5 lakh 800 excluded)
The Ritz is built on the same platform as the Swift. Let me simplify this entire review for you. In one line : The Ritz is a practical modern alternative to the Swift. While the Swift pulls the strings to your heart, it is the Ritz that’ll make sense to your head. This car is a genuine i10 competitor (though I expect it to pull a lot of potential Swift customers as well). The i10 has the advantage when it comes to sheer interior quality, but the Ritz has a killer weapon in its arsenal : The 1.3 DDIS diesel engine. The brand new K12M petrol engine is outstanding too, but more on that later.

The Ritz’ front end is mature & looks neat. Suzuki obviously wants to maintain a certain family look; in fact, if you half-shut your eyes, you’d think that the front is that of a Swift. The headlamps, in particular, are eye-catching. The MPV-like raked front windscreen does its part in making the interiors feel airy. The side profile is acceptable, while the pronounced wheel arches (seen on cars from the Indica facelift to the S-Class) are well-integrated.

Maruti’s new age hatches are fun to drive. The Swift & A-star proof of this. This car may have a tall stance, but it also has a firm long travel suspension. As a result, the handling is composed for a tall-boy. The body roll is well controlled, surprisingly, it doesn’t lean into corners uncomfortably. This is a thoroughly modern hatchback, even at a 100 kph it feels planted (well, as well as a hatchback can be). The Ritz is not as chuckable as the Swift, but a pretty balanced drive nevertheless. Impressive that it doesn’t feel like a tall boy (massive step ahead of a WagonR for instance).

Ride quality stays consistently good at the front, with a firm side to it. However, on the back seat, it was damn bouncy (city speeds of 30 – 50 kph) on typically Indian roads. As the speedometer climbed, it flattened out to an extent, but don’t expect a comfortable ride within the city over uneven road patches. The electric power steering is well-weighted and direct (but gives no feedback to the enthusiasts amongst us). 170 mm of ground clearance (raised from Euro spec 140 mm) with a firm suspension setup didn’t see the Ritz bottoming out anywhere (with 3 on board). The controls are extremely light, and this combined with peppy engines, makes the Ritz a fantastic drive within the city. The turning circle is tight as well. Nothing to write about the brakes. Standard fare. Brakes are reassuring and have decent feel. ABS available (and highly recommended) as an option on the Vxi / Vdi.

• Launch on the 15th of May.

• The Ritz is better suited for 4 rather than 5 passengers.

• The air-con was very effective, even in the hot Vizag summer. Didn’t need to go over position 2.

• I posed a question to Maruti as to why there isn’t an automatic gearbox offered on the Ritz (when chief competitor i10 does). Answer : Automatic market is too miniscule to focus on at the moment. However, I still believe that an auto Ritz would have given it a positive image & would bring / retain many a customer within the Maruti family.

• No airbags on the top-end diesel

• Maruti has skimped on an internal boot release.

• Logical upgrade from a WagonR. I’d presume a lot of WagonR owners would move on to the i10. Maruti has a product for them to stay within the family now. This car takes the fight to the i10 head on.

• I see people opting for the Ritz (over the Swift) not only because of enhanced practicality, but also for something different. The Swift sells 9000 cars a month and is pretty much a common sight on our roads. The Ritz is fresh off the block.

• FE should be decent in the city due to the engines low end torque.

• 8 colours : Red, Chocolate, blue, silver, green, grey, black and white.

• Maruti wanted to name this car the Splash (as is worldwide). However, Ford has the rights to that name in India.

• Rear is nowhere as claustrophobic as the Swift. But then, neither does it have the personality of the Swift.

• Lousy JK tyres give up way before the chassis does. 165mm / 14 on all but the ZXi which is shod with 185 / 14.

• Weight : LXi = 1005 kgs, LDi = 1100 kgs.

• Wind & tyre noise on the higher side at 100 kph, especially when seated at the back.

• Same family of engine as the A-star, but what a difference one cylinder can make. Way more refined.

• Swift diesel : petrol sales are 65:35. Will the Ritz be the same? Note that the petrol Ritz is more competitive than the petrol Swift.

• The international 1242cc K12 engine is not the one you see in the Indian Ritz. This one is tailor-cut to our sub-1.2 L tax benefits (1197 cc).

• Base versions (165mm) look horribly under-tyred.

• International versions have a hidden tray in the boot for storage. Not so on the Indian Ritz.

• Some parts like the console, rpm meter etc. exude quality

• Price isn’t disclosed yet, with mixed rumours of it being either slightly above the Swift or below. Either ways, I predict a market success.

What’s good
- Practical & thoroughly modern hatchback
- Well-packaged interiors
- Outstanding petrol & diesel engines
- Composed handling for a tall boy
- Maruti’s stellar after-sales service levels

What’s not

- Oddball rear end design
- Bumpy rear seat ride quality in the city
- Boot could have been bigger

In a nutshell, the young unmarried dude will probably still buy a Swift. But for someone with kids / family, the Ritz makes immensely more sense.

Red Emotional Beauty on FIRE - Fiat Linea

Friends,

I got the delivery of my Linea Emotion Pack FIRE on 9th apr, thursday. this was about 3-4 days later than it was expected & planned.

wanted to take delivery during daytime & asked dealer to hastenup & be ready by 4.30 pm. but got into an urgent meeting at work & could reach only by 6.30 pm. first checked all dox with the checklist i carried. then asked the dealer exe to explain everything about the car. well, he was not quite well versed with the car features, he seemed to be an accounts/ backoffice guy as all regular sales guys would have left for the day. also i has understood everything earlier during PDI at stockyard. have asked him which petrol should i use - premium or regular. he said premium. when i queried that for diesel cars fiat recommends regular diesel, he still insisted (along with another guy) that one should use premium petrol or premium diesel. looking at his ignorance i did opposite. left dealership at around 7.30 pm & got regular unleaded petrol filled at nearby pump. (ODO shown 28 kms when i did PDI at stockyard & 123 km at the time of delivery).

(got to know later at night from owners manual that for petrol cars, fiat recommends unleaded petrol with minimum 91 octane. Guess which petrol is this? I googled it & found that IOC's ExtraPremium petrol is 91 octane petrol. BPCL's Speed is not though it is a premium version with additives.)

The drive from dealership to residence is around 40 kms with about 2.5 hrs in mumbai peak traffic.

When I did the TD, I did not feel engine to be underpowered at all. however, i must say that in my 1st drive in my linea, I "felt" it underpowered in 1st & 2nd gear. 2nd gear particularly is "felt" awful. The reasone I put quotes surrounding felt is because fiat's clutch ply is long & I have to get used it it first. probably after 4-5 days when I'm used to fiat's way of clutch-accelerator/brake/gear combine with all 4 fully synchronised, I'll be able to judge it better.

y'day I noticed that steering wheel is not centre-aligned but is tilting just a little towards right hand side (around 5-10 degrees) when car is going straight line. When I align steering to exact centre, car slightly goes to left. called sales exe, he said its ok, its only a little permissible margin. not satisfied & called again that i want it to be corrected. took their service station manager no. & spoke to him. told him that i would be coming tom i.e. today sunday. he said perfectly ok & though he won't be there, he'll instruct his assistant. another reason for service sation visit was i noticed impressions of water drops all over the cars. its like water was sprayed on the car & someone forgot to wipe so drops left impression when dried. i tried to clear it, but they were too stubborn even against mild soap. on chrome when i rubbed persistently on a small area, it got cleared but didnt want to take chance on colored body.

So, today went to service station around 1 p.m. my overall impression of it is they have good intentions, their ability on fiat products would take some time to develop expertise. i got a good reception & treatment there. advisor-1 took a drive of my car & got convinced on the issue. While i waited in their comfortable AC room reading owners manual, another advisor-2 came after 10 minutes, he also just understood the problem & went. Then I met that Assistant, he said the manager did instructed him to take care of my vehicle! They all excused for half an hour as it was lunch time 1.45 pm. Then during lunch hour assistant came & said he wanted to understand all issues. so, we went driving the car to show the steering issue. Coming back I also shown him the interiors plastics which was quite dirty for a fresh car & told him that PDI was not done properly. He promised to complete everything in half an hour. after 45 minutes he came back & said the work is done, we went on a test drive again, i was not satisfied as there was not much of a difference.

So, again he took the car inside & returned with the steering issue corrected. They also cleaned the interior with car interior solution. Regarding the water drop impressions, they tried everything. 1st they washed the car, it didn't go. then they washed the car with diesel, the impressions got fainter but still didn't go. then he said he'll do 3M polish & buffing & tried to call 3M guy who went off without telling him! well, that 3M guy could not come in so he very politely requested me if i can come again day after. I left at 4 pm.

One more thing - as I mentioned in previous post, though my car is emotion pack & has blue n me, the blue & me sticker is not there on the rear glass. am not particularly interested in the sticker but want to know the reason as may be PDI was not done properly. in that case, thinking of getting everything checked on tuesday when I go back ag

From the time that Honda set foot in India in ‘97, the “City” (C segment) has marked the entry point for the brand. All of this changes with the Jazz. Trivia : The “Jazz” nameplate seems to be a favorite with Honda’s head honchos. Depending on the country, the Jazz badge has been worn by a Honda motorcycle, an SUV, and a hatchback.

This is the 2nd generation Jazz - Honda’s world hatch. It is one of the rare cars that is sold in an identical form (save for varying engine options and trim) across the globe; the same car is called the Honda Fit in North America, Japan & China and is sold as the Jazz in SE Asia, Europe & South Africa (unlike say, the entirely different Accord versions for USA & Europe). Japan is the largest market for this car, followed by Europe & then the United States. The 1st & 2nd gen Jazz’, both, have walked away with the “Japan World Car of the Year” awards in their respective introduction years.

The Indian premium hatch segment is tricky, one that the Fabia has failed at and the i20 just about managing to get along. Can Honda crack the premium hatch code?

Sharing its platform with the City, the Jazz is a thoroughly contemporary supermini, introduced to North America & UK in Y2008. It has a near identical wheel base to the City (shorter by only 50 mm), the same width and a taller stance. The car wears an MPV-like profile, especially when viewed from the front & the side, and comes across as a one-box automobile. The design is fresh, the Jazz looking distinctly premium in person. Fit, finish & paint quality are top class. Look at the side profile picture and you can tell that cabin space is stretched as much as possible. “Man maximum, machine minimum”. Yet, in my books, the i20 is the better looker.
The packaging is sheer brilliance. The Jazz’s interior is functional while the storage space is high on flexibility. The dash design is funky, only adding to the modern feel of the interiors. The doors shut with a premium-feeling “thunk” (though far from a “thud, if you know what I mean ). Interior space is more sedan- like, sufficient room for front & rear passengers alike. A large green house does its bit in making the interiors feel even more airy and headroom, in particular, is generous. I found the Jazz better suited to carrying 4 passengers in comfort (and not 5). All doors open wide for easy access, but the seats themselves are set a tad on the lower side (compared to the tall boys) while under-thigh support is below average (especially of the rear seat). On the positive side, the front seat’s awesome side bolstering literally hugs you, and lower back support is good too. The fuel tank is positioned below the front passenger seat and releases room at the rear (lower cargo floor for instance); the boot too is a massive 384 liters size. The “magic seats” – as Honda calls them – are nifty, more on that later.

There are plenty of cubby holes & storage spots for the knick knacks. Interior parts feel durable and overall quality is good (though most plastics are hard on the knock). The air-con controls are chunky & great to use, while the tactile switchgear has a very premium feel to it. Overall, the interiors feel well screwed together and, strangely, better than even the more expensive City! The driver enjoys fantastic all around visibility, driving position spot-on and all controls fall easily to hand. Unique quarter windows in front of the ORVMs & at the rear help in tight turning situations. Steering has only tilt adjustment and – sadly - none for reach. The City's steering wheel (with audio controls) is great to use while the orange backlit instrument panel is easy on the eyes. There’s even a fuel indicator that throws out real-time information on economy (FE lovers will be delighted!). The air-con is an absolute chiller. 20 minutes into the drive, I moved it down to position 1. The Jazz is extremely straight forward to use, in a way that only Toyota & Honda seem to have mastered.

Stung by the criticism in the City, Honda has made amends and equips the Jazz with an MP3 CD player as standard fitment. Aux input present, though no USB. The stereo volume is speed-sensitive. The head unit's unique shape & integration make an aftermarket stereo upgrade difficult.

All Jazz variants come standard with dual-front airbags, OEM sound system + steering controls and ABS / EBD brakes. Yet, no alloy wheels, no height adjustable seat, no dead pedal, no parcel tray, no arm rests, no lumbar support at this price!! C’mon Honda!
Pricing: Honda's pricing has been a shocker and, at 6.98 lakhs (ex showroom Delhi) doesn't offer value. The difference between the top-end Jazz and the entry level City is a mere 48,000 (City 1.5 E MT @ 7.81 lakhs). The Jazz's pricetag actually makes the Hyundai i20 seem like VFM. Even the full blown i20 Asta (O) is a whopping 1.2 lakhs cheaper (ex showroom Delhi), and that's with FAR superior equipment levels (6 airbags et al). Can a clever car & the "H" badge do some magic in the marketplace? Only time will tell.
4 year warranty + road side assistance are standard.

• Turning radius : 4.9 Meters.

• Tall 2nd gear : Good for 90 kph.

• There’s a total of 10 bottle / cup holders! Two cup holders in front of side air-con vents can keep your Pepsi cool. Rear doors come with bottle holders as well.

• 1055kg kerb weight. Safety standards are making cars heavier. The Jazz tips the scales higher than the Palio!

• Rev cut-off at 6,700 rpms.

• Steering is super-light at parking speeds.

• I hope Honda offers a CVT option sooner rather than later. It'd be in line with the market positioning of this car.

• I was happy to see Michelins as the OE tyre on some Jazz’. Make sure to tell your dealer of your preference.

• Potential of a larger engine as an option? Rumour mills are working overtime, I don't think so.

• 5 star safety rating in the NCAP. But that car had better safety features (more airbags etc.).

• Colours : Black, Red, Blue, Light blue, Silver & white.

Variants:

Jazz Base - Dual airbags, ABS + EBD, Immobilizer, Audio system + steering controls, Keyless Entry

Jazz Active - Jazz base plus spoiler, body colour grille, front fog lamps, Chrome rings + panel (interiors), side step garnishes

Jazz Mode - Body side moldings + corner protectors, mud flaps, Chrome rings + panel (interiors), side step garnishes

Spoke to the salesperson at Solitaire Honda in Mumbai today. He confirms the single variant and said that the OTR Mumbai price would be somewhere around Rs 7L to7.5L. Definitely quite an amount for a 1.2 vtec engine.

I had seen the car in Singapore and have to say that it looks gorgeous, though a little MPVish. Had seen a black customised version as well!

Bookings have started, and the booking amount is 50k.

And here is a small little fact - He says that he already has about 8 bookings . How could I forget that it is a Honda!

Maruti Suzuki Ritz in May 2009

Maruti Suzuki Ritz in May 2009 exclusive

Guys here they are cudnt wait till the evening!
Dont know which is which variant (interior pics) as i went in a clicking frenzy before the secuiry guys came back and asked me to leave. but could manage to remove some. also please note one of the interior pic has a jvc 2din player with screen and 6 speakers i wonder if it is original factory fitment from MSIL
the pics are from my mobile cam so please excuse the quality. blame nokia!
Enjoy the pics

There it was. Gleaming in the sun with a purposeful meanness that only a very capable contender could exude. I was in front of the direct descendant of the 900RR, which, 16 years ago demonstrated to the world how Superbikes should be. The 2008 Fireblade also has the DNA of the RC211V, which many say was the ultimate motorcycle to ride. It was such an incredible motorbike which actually got Rossi to change over to Yamaha, just because he needed to prove that he did not win because of the fantastic machine underneath him. A machine which was lightyears ahead of the competition. The 08 Blade had the the same DNA, but for the real world - the road and the track days.

Restarting its four years development cycle the Blade is back with a bang, it looks different and it behaves different. The only think which perhaps constant is the unbelievable modesty it defines itself as the champion of the road and the track in many a journalist's and test's books across the world.

Now then, I have personally ridden a Blackbird and a 05 Blade for decent number of miles and I know how smooth and reliable they were. I was also a sucker for how the Blade 05 looked, specially its ultra sharp profile.

When Honda released the first pictures of the 08 Blade I was disappointed. It looked just short of a fantastic design if the nose had been a little more sharper. But then, my disliking stopped there and then. In my heart I knew that superbikes were more about the performance and real life riding than just looks (which are subjective anywhich ways). Delivering more on looks, I have started liking the new blade even more than the previous avatars. Why? Because its radical, a deviation from what the norm would be. The front a tad bit taller than the rear, which in superbikesense, shouldn't be. The exhaust side stump looks fantastic, the minimalistic graphics coupled with sanely done cutwork on the panels and plastics looks fantastic and graspable. Its simple yet very complex at the same time and often defies the way superbike should be looking from some angles.

Going further from the looks, the performance and reviews further rationalizes the reason why lots of people swear by the Blade - its the overall package which matters.

My first impression of the Blade in flesh confirmed this and more, it is one hell of a talented motorbike and the sheer number of research and grey substance gone into developing this machine coupled with the incredibly rich lineage its got shows through. And if that wasn't enough, its performance in the WSBK championships are a testimony of what it is actually made of.

And of course, as usual it was pointless taking the Blade and doing anywhere the crazy stuff it can do in Delhi for in every square meter there lies a mass of humanity, some dressed in khaki, some in white!

The color to get would be Black or the European white and black - just stunning!

So now we have to wait and watch till January 2009 comes by and Honda India launches and infuses the Indian motorcycle scene with this incredible DNA.

First Impression: Yamaha R15

I already had the first glimpse of R-1-5 back in the month of January during Auto Expo 2008.But I never had the opportunity that time to look into the smaller details of the bike. Its only after Ayush (One of the first customers of R-1-5 in Delhi) had given us the opportunity for a photo shoot that I came so close to the bike.

Looks: I already had an initial impression of the bike as I had seen it sometimes back. My first reaction remained unchanged this time round also. When Yamaha had thought so much about the bike and this is the most important launch for them in years why they have compromised with the final looks?.The bike looks a bit disproportionate. I’m not only talking about the rear but the complete bike as a package. The perfect lines which starts from the front seems to get lost somewhere in the middle. In an effort to keep a balance between Supersport and the normal Indian buyer they compromised with the overall looks. When the FZ is coming out in near future Yamaha should have gone all out with this product. That said the bike looks absolutely superb from front or when the bike approaches towards you.
Switchgear quality is average and I would have loved to see better switchgear for a product which costs 1lakh.The rear view mirrors are pretty well built and are very useful. Light looks good but need to check their usability in night.

The console is neatly done and looks imposing. The panel looks nice from a distance but a closer look at some of the points gives you the feeling that the job could have been better.

Riding Position and Stance: I rode the bike for 5 minutes in a very bumpy surrounding. The riding position is sportier than a P220 and P200 but less sporty than Apache RTR. All concerns about tall riders facing problem can now rest as I found the seating perfect for me. For record I’m 5’11”.
Power Delivery: I easily felt there is very little power at lower R.P.M which is like any other Supersport so no complaints on that front. But it will be interesting to see how the bike fares in stop-go traffic as most of the buyers will use the bike for daily commute.

Right now I won’t comment on any other important aspects of the bike and I’m looking forward to have a proper test ride of the bike so as to have a complete idea about the bike.

So did this bike set my pulse racing and and its worthy of saying “WOW” as Yamaha promised us on the R1 launch. I would say no and will give it a 3/5 for looks and first impression. I though always judges a bike through its performance so I would reserve my final verdict.And yes I’m looking forward to FZ16.

First Impression:TVS Apache RTR FI 160

Engine and Performance:
One of the problems that the earlier generation Apaches and to an extent the RTR is the engine roughness. The performance was never a problem. With the addition of Fuel Injection that problem seems to have gone out of the window. The power delivery is very smooth and the throttle response is very crisp. The gearbox too is precise with positive shifts every time you tap the lever. The first gear is a bit weak and you don’t feel the true potential of the 150.7cc mill. It’s only when you slot into second gear that the RTR FI starts to show its true colors. Once past 5k r.p.m it accelerates with authority. Shifting while in the power band, I began to feel at home and was excited enough not to resist the urge to go faster and faster. That said if you shifts the gear in lower r.p.m’s then you feel a tremendous loss in power and it takes quite a while to hit the power band again. So correct shifting is the key if you are riding the bike in day to day traffic. But personally I don’t have any complaints about the character of the bike.
TVS says: The bike was not properly run-in and maybe the tuning was not correct and hence the loss of power in lower gears. You won’t feel the loss of power once the run-in is completed.
Some rough figures which I tested
1st gear-Didn’t wanted to rev the bike too much
2nd gear-70 at 10K r.p.m
3rd gear-92 at 10k r.p.m
4th gear-104 at 10k r.p.m
5th gear-Tested only till 116 but I got feeling that it will touch close to 130.
**All the above speeds are speedo indicated.

Ride and Handling:
A look at the weather and the overall surrounding and I knew that I won’t be able to push the bike on the corners which is the main forte of this bike. It has been raining pretty consistently from past couple of days. That said I tried to give my 100% during the test ride.
To provide that racing intent Apache RTR FI has that perfect seating position, courtesy the clip-ons and perfectly positioned rear sets. You have the option to select between two seating modes based upon your requirement to ride on road or race at the track. Also it gives an option to people of various heights to adjust.
Apache’s compact geometry and 17-inch front tyre makes for quicker turn-ins in a series of corners but it is far more enjoyable on tight corners. But in city traffic I found it a little bit cumbersome to steer at high speeds.
I’m on a bit taller side and I felt the bike to be a bit cramped specially when trying to get behind the bike for that special moment when you try to attack the corner very hard. People with a height upto 5ft10inch will enjoy the bike more than the taller guys.

TVS says: Most of our test riders fall in the category of 5ft10 inch to 6ft2inch and they didn’t face any such problem. That’s the beauty of those two seating positions which a lot of option to two different dimension of people. It has more to do with spending more time with the bike.
Could be yes.

The ride is a bit on the stiffer side bit I have no complaints as I always prefer a stiffer setting than a softer set-up. The gas charged shocks responds quicker to surface inconsistencies and also dissipates rebound damping energy thereby completely eliminating the bouncy aspect. But for longer hours of riding on a not so smooth road the back will take a bit of beating.

Chassis and Suspension
TVS says: We take extreme pride in our chassis and suspension development which is typically suited for both track and road conditions. The project engineers did extensive research in fine tuning the suspension and worked on the chassis to keep the balance and that’s why we feels proud in saying that this is a track tool.

Braking Performance:
Petal discs not only look cools but perform pretty well. Front disc brakes are very sharp and there is a sense of surety whenever you apply it. The rear disc is also very sharp and you don’t feel any sponginess in it. Infact people who have a tendency to use the rear disc brakes more should take it easy before using it properly as it may turn out to be a bane rather than boon.

TVS says: Most of our buyers are enthusiasts who know the correct technique of braking and hence we believe that they won’t face any problem.

Tyre Performance:
As against the popular belief that the TVS tyres are not good and specifically loses traction on wet conditions I found them pretty decent even if not excellent both in dry and wet conditions. But to be very frank I would have loved to see tubeless on the FI variant.

TVS says: We accept that the tyre quality in our earlier models( Read the first generation Apaches) were not great but now it is at par to the competition if not better. It’s the perception of public that we need to change. Tubeless would have added the overall cost and the bike is made especially for normal street and track and we don’t see the need as such. But in the higher capacity models you can expect to see tubeless.

Pillion Comfort:
I had the opportunity to have not one but two pillion riders who regularly sits behind me. As per my conversation with both of them this is what they have to say.
“The rear seat is pretty hard and a bit narrow. The two piece grab rails are pretty neat and very usable eve in the case of heavy braking and you don’t feel any pain in the hand. On sudden acceleration you don’t feel like falling backwards but on hard braking you have a tendency to fall on the rider”.
Note: The pillion have the experience of sitting only on Karizma and Pulsar 220 so the above lines are plain comparison with the said bike.

Miscellaneous:
Headlights: Works fine and provides ample light on night.
Horn: Does its job without creating major fuss but there is no need for any market fitments.
Switchgear including clip-ons: Pretty ok but for something bigger I would like to see a better finished product.
The best is definitely the digital meter with those added on features and the new blue backlit which makes it even more interesting.
Fuel efficiency: It’s difficult to predict the actual fuel efficiency but I got somewhere around 46 so a proper run-in bike will easily give 50-55 in day to day riding condition. On highway it will be a slightly more.

A short compare with RTR Carbed version:
Though both the bikes looks identically equal but on a closer look you can see the difference in the racing stripes pattern and also the different color backlit speedo. Rear disc is not there and also all the important FI is missing from badging. The difference is the exhaust note is prominent and with your eyes closed you can say that it’s not the FI version. After riding the FI RTR I didn’t liked the carbed one not because it’s a bad product but because FI variant is much better. The throttle response is not that crisp and you can feel a slight roughness in the engine. TVS had cleverly given only one FI variant to differentiate the product and they should seriously think of just continuing the carbed version in the price sensitive zones.


Official Press Release

TVS Motor Company introduces Fuel Injection
in the 160cc Category
- Company launches feature rich Apache RTR FI -

New Delhi: July 09, 2008 : TVS Motor Company, today unveiled its feature rich TVS Apache RTR FI, thereby introducing fuel injection for the first time in the 160cc category. This bike offers riders the instant thrill and superior performance of a fuel injected 160cc engine and is packed with rich and innovative features including a blue backlit speedometer that introduces data logging for the first time in the category. Data pertaining to the last three zero to sixty timings and the last three top speeds are logged and displayed on the speedometer. The bike’s new retractive tank scoop and open chain case gives it an even more racy cue.

Designed to ignite passions of enthusiasts, the naked aggression of the RTR FI makes it a clear leader in its class. It raises the bar in terms of power and performance, agility, dynamics, and ride comfort. The RTR FI is powered by a 159.7cc fuel injected engine, which develops maximum power of 15.9 Ps at 8500 rpm and a peak torque of 13.1Nm at 6500 rpm.

“With this launch, TVS Motor Company has given the common man an opportunity to experience high end technology in the performance segment, giving the rider a combination of an exhilarating ride performance with minimized emissions. The fuel injection technology deployed in the RTR FI gives the motorcycle crisper throttle response and enhances fuel efficiency.” H S Goindi, Head - Marketing, TVS Motor Company said.


“The RTR FI has further strengthened our presence in the premium segment and we also have firm plans to introduce more products in this segment by the year end” Goindi added.

The RTR FI is driven by a microprocessor consisting of an Electronic Control Unit (ECU) made up of sensors, a fuel pump and an injector. The ECU receives the data from sensors, processes it and delivers optimum fuel metering and ignition timing. The bike top speeds at 120kmph, can reach 60kph in 4.8s and 100kph in 17.7s.

Priced at Rs. 64,990/- ex-showroom New Delhi, the Apache RTR FI offers instantaneous response throughout the rev range to maximize rider feel, better idle stability, excellent drivability, better fuel economy and performance consistency at various altitudes and environments.

Innovative technology, a premium and racetrack performance bred product, powerful elegance in body design and superb ride dynamics make the new Apache RTR FI the new showcase of technology.

Honda to raise price of its world class cars

Honda plans to raise car prices in India


The Honda Siel CEO sees the downturn lasting for another 6 months & points out that his firm caters to buyers in the premium segment, where the impact of an economic slowdown is tempered


New Delhi: Faced with a contracting demand for cars in India, Honda Motor Co.’s unit here expects to raise prices on its models and maintain slower production for the next six months, even as it keeps its plans for its small car, christened Jazz, unchanged.“Devaluation of rupee is impacting our business because 20-25% of our components are imported from Japan and Thailand. We need to adjust this cost impact,” Masahiro Takedagawa, president and chief executive of Honda Siel Cars India Ltd, said late on Saturday evening at a company awards function. “For the CRV it (the price increase) will be substantial.”


Honda Siel is working out the price increase for the other models but customers who had ordered the new model of the Honda City will be protected. Launched in November, the City, which has sold 12,233 units, helped Honda lessen the impact of the slowdown.‘Devaluation of rupee is impacting our business because 20-25% of our components are imported from Japan, Thailand.’In the Indian market consumer confidence has come back slightly, Takedagawa added. Still, the company has seen sales of its models, other than the City, decline sharply. Its total sales in January fell by one-fourth, to 5,773 units when compared with the same month last year. This resulted in the company cutting production at its Greater Noida facility, which is operating on a single shift from the start of this year. It now makes about 200 cars a day instead of the earlier 380 cars.


The production cuts have helped the company trim its inventory to four weeks. Once car sales pick up, it’ll take Honda two months to get back to a two shift production schedule, Takedagawa said. The Honda Siel CEO sees the downturn lasting for another six months and points out that his firm caters to buyers in the premium segment, where the impact of an economic slowdown is tempered. Even so, “customers are concerned with global economy so they have become naturally cautious”, he said.
Honda continues to push ahead with plans to launch the Jazz, a premium hatchback car. Trial production has started, Takedagawa said. Its 1.2 litre engine has been tailored to Indian regulations to avail of a 12.5% tax rebate.


Like its global counterparts, Toyota Motor Co. and General Motors Corp., Honda has also been wracked by slowing sales in India. But unlike them, it managed to close 2008 with a positive growth in unit sales due to its bike business.

THINKING OUT OF THE BOX IS WAY TO SOLVE MUMBAI TRAFFIC

hello friends . one of my relative had recently mailed a letter to the head of
Mumbai Traffic Police with an unique idea for solving our congetion problem in our city . the unique idea of thinking out of the box by dividing roads in three parts.below is the the letter written .

Dear Mr. Athawale,

First of all, I must congratulate Mumbai Traffic Police for their patience in managing traffic not only during festive season but on a day to day basis. The constables who are their on the streets of Mumbai really put all of efforts to manage traffic in return of a very little recognition. I have tried to look at the traffic problem between Nariman Point to Andheri to begin with special attention to Mahim/ Bandra. If successful, similar study can also be done at other location. The below mentioned study is keeping in mind that it will take some time for infrastructure to be in place and in the meanwhile lot of congetion may take place due to construction activities.

We have always divided our roads in two parts. May be because there was never a need to look at it in a different way. However, with increasing traffic, we need to think out of box and one such measure is to divide road in three parts. As Mumbai is a linear city, movement of traffic is mainly in one direction. As such, for optimum utilization of road, we may look at option of dividing roads in three parts. An experiment for the same can be made at Bandra – Mahim creek bridge, wherein two lanes can be used for south bound traffic and one towards north bound up to 2pm and two lanes can be used for north bound traffic and one towards south bound post 2pm.


TRAFFIC MEASURES


Short Term Measures
North bound one way from Babulnath to Haji Ali on Pedar Road
North bound one way from Worli Naka to Mahim Church on Dr. Anne Besant Road
South bound one way from Mahim Church to Haji Ali on Tulsi Pipe Road
South bound one way from Haji Ali towards Kennedy Bridge
South bound one way from Kennedy Bridge towards Churchgate at Maharshi Karve Rd
No Right Turn from Mahim Church to Bandra
No Right Turn from Bandra Reclamation to Mahim
No left turn from Bandra East Flyover to Mahim church side
No Right Turn from Shivsagar Estate at Worli towards Haji Ali
One way on Cooper Hospital/ Alfa Road from SV Road to Cooper Hospital
Minimise Right turn at various road eg. Glaxo Junction, Bandra Linking Road,
No heavy vehicles to be allowed on bridges as far as possible.

Phase II on success of above
Complete One way on Linking Road towards North
Complete One way on Mithibai College Road towards South

Mid Term Measures
A Motor sub way below western express highway opposite Milan sub way
A flyover connecting Andheri flyover to Regency Hotel Turn
Joining Bandra Station west to Tulsi Pipe Road at Mahim
A road between Juhu Lane and Bhavans college at Andheri (west

written by rajendra mehta

Mumbai Towing Service: Is this how our cars are towed?

I was just walking to a place near my house, and I found a car being towed. I took some photos. Let them speak for themselves. I have only one word to say. ABYSMAL! Just look at the way the car has been towed.
Nowadays no one can expect any sort of good work from this department. They are money hungry rascals who only work for money. JUST look at the flex on the poor bumper!
The shameless buggers didn't even object to me taking photos. I guess the 'chalta hai' attitude again. Miffs me to no end.
Photos!

cng vs lpg .... guess who wins it ?

petrol prices are sky rocketing. Does this leave you with Diesel as the only economical option? NO! Times have changed! Presenting the new age car fuel alternatives – CNG and LPG; apart from being lighter on your pocket, these options are also environment-friendly.

Team-BHP explains the pros and cons of each fuel, as also about the issue as a whole.

With the Indian government providing several benefits on CNG and LPG, it is no surprise that buses and taxis in several metros have switched over. From easy availability to high subsidies, the government is providing complete support to these fuel preferences. As shown in the recent budget, bio-diesel is also given political preference now. Naturally, auto manufacturers have taken advantage of this and they now offer factory fitted options. However, some manufacturers like Maruti Suzuki prefer LPG where as others like Chevy & Ford opt for CNG.

Why opt for Gas?:
• Lowest running costs (compared to other fuel alternatives like diesel)
• Cleaner emissions
• Better resale value (in the case of factory-fitted kits only)
• Complete manufacturer-support available
• Any time switch over to petrol is possible

Factors that may hold you back:
• Initial investment in setup
• Reduced boot space
• Compromised power delivery
• Limited availability (compared to petrol and diesel). Few highways have consistent supplies. Also, some towns may not have any supply at all.
• Longer waits at the fuel pump

Are Natural Gas powered vehicles safe?
Natural Gas is an ideal fuel source for many reasons, including safety. Natural Gas is lighter than air. This means that it will not puddle (like petrol) which is heavier than air. Instead, Natural Gas will rise and dissipate in the atmosphere. Natural gas also has a higher ignition temperature. This means that it is much harder to ignite. Also the storage systems used for CNG and LPG are stronger than the petrol tanks found on cars and trucks today.



Want to switch? Here’s what you should do:
Consult the professionals at authorised high-quality service stations for the correct advice. Agreeably, this may cost you about 20% higher compared to your local unauthorised service station. But compared to the authenticity of the advice, reliability of the fittings and efficiency of the system, this price differential is well worth it. Team-BHP recommends only manufacturer-fitted kits or those from authorised service stations. Also, Please strictly AVOID the illegal LPG domestic-cylinder conversions.

Remember to:

• Endorse your registration certificate accordingly.
• Notify your insurance company. The premium may also go up marginally.
• If yours is a brand new car, you may stand to lose warranty coverage (even if the fitting is from an authorised service station

ARTICLE: How to Buy and live with a Superbike in India

While you can buy a Ferrari F430, Porsche 911 Turbo and even a 4 crore rupee Rolls Royce Phantom off-the-shelf in India, the same simplicity does not apply to a superbike purchase. For some unfathomable reasons, the bike industry has not kept up with its automotive counterparts and the Yamahas and Hondas of the world seem content with selling 100cc economy motorcycles. For the enthusiast, however, this is hardly a deterrent as several grey market options are available. The options also come with their own disadvantages as the grey market is full of uncertainty and disorganization. While superbikes attract an import duty (customs) of 142% (used) or 88% (new), the market is very unpredictable. A correct and well-informed approach will go a long way in ensuring peace-of-mind with your superbike purchase.

Team-BHP shows you the formalities in buying / living with a superbike, and the measures you must implement to ensuring a hassle-free ownership experience.

Disclaimer: We use the term “Superbike” here as a blanket term to cover all forms of 2 wheeled imports. Strictly speaking, the term “Superbike” is applied to sports bikes with an engine capacity of 750cc or over.

The most important part first: Paperwork!

1. A lot depends on how reliable the seller is, what condition the bike is in and how clean the paperwork is. Search within the Team-BHP community for information on reputed superbike merchants and ask around in biker circles for recommendations. The reputation of a seller is very important.

2. An overwhelming 99% of import bikes in India are brought down via the “transfer of residence” route, wherein an Indian, living abroad for a certain period of time, is allowed to bring back the vehicle that he was using there (for a reduced percentage of duty). Under the “Transfer or residence” route, the vehicle cannot be sold for 2 years from the time of registering it in India.

3. Therefore, the first step is to verify the age of the bike and ensure that it is more than 2 years since it has been brought into the country. Remember, it doesn't matter how old the bike is; it is the date of registration in India that is to be considered. This important step ensures that the superbike can be registered in your name.

4. The second unspoken rule is to look out for where the bike has been registered. It is widely accepted that bikes imported and registered in Mumbai (MH-01/02) are considered as the cleanest imports. Bikes with “MP” and “KA” registration plates are to be looked at very cautiously.

5. Different states and cities have different ways of registering vehicles. For example, Mumbai issues a proper RC book (Registration Certificate) which includes all details about the vehicle as well as the import document numbers, bill of entry details, bill of lading number, passport details of the original importer etc. The RC book also keeps a record of the number of buyers. The RC book will also make a note of the declared value of the bike, the duty paid and all tax charges that have been cleared.

6. Very often dealers/brokers/owners will tell you that the original bill of entry was submitted to the RTO at the time of registration. This is absolute rubbish. The concerned authority generates three copies of the bill of entry; one stays with them, one goes to the RTO for registration and the last copy stays with the bike owner.

7. Many superbike owners do not register the bikes to their name. They simply hold on to the transfer papers and ride the bike for a few months before selling it to someone else. Make it a point to try and buy a bike from a person who has transferred it to their name as this shows that the owner is not a use & throw kind of rider, and the bike would have been maintained in a better way.

8. In the case of an out-of-state purchase, insist on an NOC (No Objection Certificate) from the RTO where the bike was registered. Without this, you will not be able to transfer the bike to your name or sell it on to anyone else.

9. What you have to watch out for are the bikes that are imported as parts, and then assembled here. In some cases, you will find that the RC book data would not correspond to the bike's data (engine/chassis numbers, make of the bike etc.). Many “baggage bikes”, as these are popularly called, do have the correct details (colour, engine cc, imported vehicle information, etc) of the assembled bike on the RC. Therefore, the key points to look out for are the Passport details of the importer and corresponding bill of entry number being mentioned on the RC book.

10. Buying older bikes is inherently safer as these bikes are now too old for the officials to really bother about. Also, chances are that the bikes have already been through the system a few times between owners and any problems would have come to light earlier.

Most major superbike manufacturers such as Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki and Suzuki are expected to offer superbikes officially on sale in India. We await that moment with open arms but until then, the above-mentioned route is the only way for you to own your dream machine.

Safe Driving in the rains

As a country of extreme weather conditions and inadequate road infrastructure, India can offer some truly brutal driving conditions in the rainy season. At Team-BHP, safety is an absolute first. We do hope that the following tips & guidelines help you toward safer motoring in the rains.

Important

• Be twice as considerate to two-wheelers! Not only are they completely exposed to the rains, but neither do they have the same braking / grip levels as your car. Don't tail bikes either. They are prone to slips / falls and we don't want you to run over them.

• Likewise for pedestrians. In rainy conditions, pedestrians are extremely hard to spot. Also, please don’t splash water on pedestrians.

• Plan the journey such that you reach your destination within daylight hours.

• When possible, stay off the roads during heavy rains. If you are on the road and visibility gets worse, park someplace safe, get a cup of coffee and wait for the rains to simmer down.

• Don’t park anywhere on the road, or close to where other cars would pass you. Poor visibility could result in someone banging into your car. The ideal place to park would be one that’s off a street and at a level higher than the road. If you are parking only for a short time, switch your parking lights on.

• For overnight parking, choose a clean area and one that's away from rodents. Corner / isolated spots are best avoided. During the rains, rats take shelter under the hood and chew on wires.

which steps needs to be taken before modification

• Remember to practice SAFE DRIVING on public roads! With additional power comes the need for additional responsibility. Keep the racing restricted to track days and in other forms of competition (within a controlled environment).

• Enroll with a professional rally / racing / driving school. This will not only make you a faster driver but also a safer one. To quote a popular Pirelli tagline : Power is nothing without control.

• Ensure that you are with the right tuner. The quality of install and product is most important. Get your work done only by a tuner who has the relevant knowledge, infrastructure and dedication to carry out a high quality installation. The product quality is equally important and it is generally recommended to stick to reputed brands (wherever available). A bad modification can actually make your car slower than in stock tune. Poor reliability may also result from a bad installation, causing a great amount of heart-burn to you.

• Remember that the engine is a very complex system and each component has to work in harmony with everything else. Only then will you benefit from the performance modifications.

• Tune your car via a step-by-step method. This will allow you to gauge improvements in an incremental manner and fine-tune one modification before moving on to the next.

• Choose a “mod-friendly” car to start with. Most Japanese brands like the Hondas and Suzuki’s have tremendous after-market support in terms of parts availability and tuner capability. Simply put, there are some cars which inherently respond better to performance tuning. On the other hand, it is a pointless exercise trying to make heavy cars like the Contessa or a Mahindra Jeep go any faster! Pick your car based on what you want to achieve.

• Beware of cheap “go-fast” gimmicks like the Surbo and electric superchargers, which are nothing but an absolute waste of money. Common sense plays a vital role out here; why would you need a DTM corner slammer on a front wheel drive car that spends most of its time below 120 kph.

• Remember that Vitamin M (or Money!!) runs the show. Tuning your car can be an expensive proposition, so outline a detailed budget before moving on from stage to stage. Not only will the modifications cost you big $$$, but lowered fuel efficiency (almost certain) will cause another dent on your wallet. Some highly-modified cars or engines running an increased compression ratio may also require high-octane fuel to run efficiently.

• Invest in a popular timing device like the G-Tech series. This range of timing equipment will help you to gauge the benefits of your modification, and whether that actually translated into making your car faster.

• Remember that your warranty will almost certainly be nullified, if your car is within the coverage period.

• Think before you try to alleviate the visual appeal of your car via body kits and spoilers. Be warned that a badly-designed body kit will ruin the aerodynamics of your car and may cause it to become unstable at high speeds. Also, spoilers are merely for looks and, in any case, work only above 175kph.

Choosing The Right Set Of Tyres for your Car

Tyres are the fundamental link between your car and the road. A good set of tyres will improve the handling, steering, acceleration and braking of your car, and will make full use of any further modifications performed to your car. This article contains the bare essentials of choosing the right set of tyres for a typical passenger vehicle without getting too technical or specific.

There are five main elements you have to consider when choosing the right set of tyres for your vehicle:

1. Tube-type or tubeless
2. Size of tyre
3. Tread pattern
4. Rubber Compound
5. Overall quality of the tyre

1. Tube-type or tubeless

The answer to this question is very simple. Opt for tubeless tyres. They are safer, more advanced and have a few other small advantages too. You do NOT need to have alloy wheels in order to use tubeless tyres. However, for the best results, your steel wheels should be rust free (or just buy a new set as they are very cheap) and preferably have the insides coated with an anti-rust coating (See Discussion : Tubeless tyres on steel rims).

2. Size

Size is probably the most talked about and controversial part of buying tyres if you are going for an upsize. Tyre sizes are represented in a standard format. For eg. 205/55 R 15, which can be read as follows:
205 (mm) - or 20.5cm is the width of the tread on the tyre.
55 (%) - is the height of the sidewall represented as a percentage of the tread width.
R (Radial) - Radial construction, as almost all tyres are nowadays.
15 (inches) - Is the rim diameter of the wheel on which this tyre is designed to fit.

Choosing the right size can be broken up into three decisions:

Rim size - You have to choose a tyre size designed for exactly the size of rim you plan to mount the tyre on. Larger rims will effectively reduce the sidewall height (making the tyre lower profile) and therefore minimize sidewall flex when cornering, adding to the "on rails" feel, however, this will obviously have an adverse effect on ride quality and comfort.

Tread width - Generally a 0mm-20mm increase in width from the stock size is considered within the realm of sanity in the Indian context. Keep in mind that not only size, but tyre compound also plays a large role in "grippyness". To get a better idea of whether you should upsize your tyre width (if at all) see the chart on this page. Keep in mind that the tyre width also has an ideal wheel width which it works best with, try to keep this in mind otherwise you may end up having stability issues when braking hard or cornering.(Check the Rim-Width calculator to find out if your rims will be ok for your new tyres). If you increase the width of your tyres, you should also confirm that they do not touch the wheelwells of your car on turning the steering wheel all the way and when the car is under full load.

Sidewall Height (or Profile) - After selecting your rim size and your tread width, the objective is to choose a sidewall profile that keeps the overall diameter of the new tyres as close to original as possible. Use this calculator to judge changes in size. Generally a difference in the range of 3-4% is considered acceptable.Keep in mind that a change in overall diameter (OD) of your tyre & wheel combo will cause a slight error in your speedometer readings and odometers readings, which is purely academic. Also your ground clearance may change very slight (half the change in diameter).

how to get whole fuel efficiency

DRIVING STYLE

• Drive smoothly: Aggressive acceleration and braking significantly increase the fuel consumption of your car. Develop a smoother driving style whereby you accelerate and decelerate in a linear and smooth manner. How you drive is very important to FE.

• Avoid clutch riding: Driving with your foot on the clutch results in “wastage” of engine power, which in turn increases your fuel consumption and wears out your clutch rapidly. Do not keep your foot on the clutch, except for when changing gears.

• Minimise Idling: If your car is going to be stationary for an extended period of time, switch the engine off.

• Choosing the right gear: Being in a higher gear at too low a speed, or in a lower gear at a very high speed increase your fuel consumption. It is important to shift up as “early” as possible without straining the engine. For most cars, the ideal shift point would be anywhere between 1500 – 2000 rpm.

• Maintain a constant speed: Varying speeds do not make the car as efficient as a constant speed will. Especially when out on the open road, try to maintain a consistent rate of travel.

• The Optimum speed: Aerodynamic resistance increases exponentially with speed. For e.g. at speeds over a 100 km/h, your car will consume a lot more fuel than at 80 – 90 km/h. Keep within this limit to maximize the FE of your car.

• A safe distance: Maintaining a healthy distance between your car and the one ahead is not only safer, but also leads to higher FE. This gives you a higher reaction time, better visibility and a smoother drive. Aggressive braking has a detrimental effect on your cars fuel efficiency.

• Around the corner: Short trips invariably make your car consume a lot more fuel. The primary reason is that every engine has an optimum running temperature, and very short distances will almost certainly result in your car running at a cold temperature for a majority of the distance.

• Windows drag: At high speeds, open windows can affect the cars aerodynamic efficiency. It is better to keep the windows rolled up and the air-conditioner on at speeds over a 100 km/h.

ARTICLE: The Team-BHP Guide to BASIC Car Audio

The first rule of car audio is to listen. Differences in taste and car acoustics combined with myriad combinations of head units, speakers and amplifiers make it almost impossible to design the ideal system for everyone. While the perfect system for everybody does not exist, with a little effort it may be possible to find the perfect system for you. Remember: it is your money, your car, your music and your ears. Listen before deciding.

When selecting a system, try to choose a large international brand that is widely available and supported by a good service network, like Alpine, Blaupunkt, JBL, JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer and Sony. We recommend buying only from official distributors that offer a manufacturer’s warranty.
The head unit: Today most head units (HUs) play only CDs – rightly so, since tapes are long past their prime – but there are still a few cassette units available and even some cassette/CD units. Because CD-only HUs are the most common, there is a wider available range of units of differing quality and cost. We recommend buying an HU that is MP3 compatible. Most HUs come with built-in amplifiers, but you should not believe the advertised power rating: it is usually inflated. These amplifiers normally only produce about 8-12 watts RMS, <0.1% distortion and 20 Hz-20 kHz. While this kind of power is not earth shattering, it should be enough for most uses. HU prices start at Rs.6 000.
Amplifiers: Amps are used for two purposes: to reduce the load on the HU power supply so that it performs better, and to increase the sound levels of the car audio system. In most cases 35-40 watts RMS per channel is more than enough, but advertised amplifier specs are often optimistic. You should check to see that amplifier distortion figures are less than (<) 0.1%, 20 Hz-20 kHz and that all channels are driven in parallel. Avoid amps that do not meet these specifications. Prices start at Rs.5 000 for a 4-channel amplifier and at Rs.3 000 for two channels.
Speakers: Speakers contain the fewest parts because they simply convert electrical energy to mechanical – that is why those cones move so much. Many audiophiles believe that speakers have the most influence on overall sound quality.

There are two basic speaker types: coaxials and components. In coaxial speakers the low frequency and high frequency units are molded into a single physical frame. In component speakers the low and high frequency units are separate and include a third part, called the crossover. Component speaker systems are more expensive but offer superior sound quality. To accommodate limited budgets people often use component speakers in the front of the car and coaxial speakers in the rear.
Wires: The quality of wiring is more important than most people think. Choose only wires manufactured by well-recognized, international brands.

Power wires connect the battery to the HU and amplifiers and provide an electrical ground to the body of the car. Cheap power wires may affect sound dynamics and cause other noticeable disturbances, like headlight dimming at high volumes. Good 8-gauge wire will do unless your amplifiers are particularly powerful.

Interconnects connect the HU to the amplifier. Since most amplifiers are installed in the trunk and most HUs in the dash, these wires typically have to run the length of the car. Because the signal generated by the HU is not powerful, these wires are susceptible to noise. By choosing a reliable set of interconnects you will ensure that your speakers play only music, not static or alternator whine.

Speaker wires connect the amplifier to the speakers. In systems that don’t use a separate amplifier, they connect the HU’s built-in amp to the speakers.
Installation: We strongly recommended that you use only certified professionals to install your audio system. Do not use the services of untrained installers who can cause serious damage to a car and audio system.

ARTICLE: How to modify a diesel car for more performance

Modern diesel engines compete very effectively with petrol engines. Common-rail and some direct-injection turbo diesels are lightning fast, phenomenally fuel efficient and offer phenomenal torque that improves drivability. But is BHP ever enough? If you think performance enhancements are only for petrol engines, think again.

Team-BHP examines how you can get more power from your diesel engine:

1. Power chips and boxes: As simple to install as plug-and-play; in as little as five minutes you can shave upto three seconds from your 0 – 100 acceleration time. Most diesel engines are electronically controlled and a power box will adjust certain control parameters to significantly improve performance. Adding a better intake filter and a free flow exhaust will further improve the performance of your chipped diesel.

2. Turbo-charging: The high compression ratios in diesel engines call for tougher components than those used in petrol engines. As a result, it is easier to install and upgrade turbos on a diesel. Keep in mind that turbo-charging a diesel engine requires an increase in fuel pressure on the fuel pump. Find out more about turbo-charging from this linky.

3. Tweaking fuel pumps: Simple fuel pump tuning will provide more power, albeit at the expense of fuel efficiency. The most frequently modified fuel pumps are manufactured by Bosch. Contact a diesel fuel pump overhauling service to help you tune your pump.

4. Improved inhaling: More air means more oxygen which means more power. Since turbo-charged diesel engines need lots of cool air, RAM intakes offer noticeable performance improvements. The use of performance-grade filters also improves the intake characteristics of turbo-charged diesel engines.

5. Improved exhaling: A free-flowing exhaust leads to the smooth discharge of exhaust gases and results in improved performance. Also, turbo back-pressure is reduced by good exhaust flow.

6. LPG fumigation: Akin to NOS injection in petrol engines, LPG fumigation is the introduction of propane into the air intake of a diesel engine. The difference is that NOS can be used only for short bursts while LPG can be used for longer distances. LPG works like a fuel additive, providing a small amount of fast-burning fuel to aid combustion. It is relatively safe to use: diesel ignites at 350 degrees while LPG ignites at close to 500 degrees, so LPG combustion occurs only after the diesel has ignited. LPG kits for diesels are similar to the LPG kits used on normal petrol cars, except that they are boost-referenced as rather than vacuum-referenced. A properly installed LPG fumigation system will result in a better-running diesel engine. Recommended links for more information are mrsharkey and xtremediesel.

ARTICLE: CNG vs LPG Comparision

Petrol prices are sky rocketing. Does this leave you with Diesel as the only economical option? NO! Times have changed! Presenting the new age car fuel alternatives – CNG and LPG; apart from being lighter on your pocket, these options are also environment-friendly.

Team-BHP explains the pros and cons of each fuel, as also about the issue as a whole.

With the Indian government providing several benefits on CNG and LPG, it is no surprise that buses and taxis in several metros have switched over. From easy availability to high subsidies, the government is providing complete support to these fuel preferences. As shown in the recent budget, bio-diesel is also given political preference now. Naturally, auto manufacturers have taken advantage of this and they now offer factory fitted options. However, some manufacturers like Maruti Suzuki prefer LPG where as others like Chevy & Ford opt for CNG.

Why opt for Gas?:
• Lowest running costs (compared to other fuel alternatives like diesel)
• Cleaner emissions
• Better resale value (in the case of factory-fitted kits only)
• Complete manufacturer-support available
• Any time switch over to petrol is possible

Factors that may hold you back:
• Initial investment in setup
• Reduced boot space
• Compromised power delivery
• Limited availability (compared to petrol and diesel). Few highways have consistent supplies. Also, some towns may not have any supply at all.
• Longer waits at the fuel pump

Are Natural Gas powered vehicles safe?
Natural Gas is an ideal fuel source for many reasons, including safety. Natural Gas is lighter than air. This means that it will not puddle (like petrol) which is heavier than air. Instead, Natural Gas will rise and dissipate in the atmosphere. Natural gas also has a higher ignition temperature. This means that it is much harder to ignite. Also the storage systems used for CNG and LPG are stronger than the petrol tanks found on cars and trucks today.

The Fiat Linea test drive thread

When I first saw the car, I was a little apprehensive, which I still am because it looked too rounded and long for 8 Lakh cars, it reminded me of a catfish, with its snout stuck out like that.

Attachment 84399


The very next day after the Training commenced we were given the Details of the car , it's competition that Fiat Mainly Targeted was SX4,Fiesta,ANHC & the Verna. So along with the Linea the SX4, the Verna & Fiesta were there, as the ANHC wasn't launched then it wasn't available then.

The Car is sure loaded to the gills with features, If you guys go through the other Linea threads we can get a clear-cut idea of all the features in the car. The Linea on the road felt planted, might be due to it's low squatted stance, while in the car the whole car feels really low, the Power window switches and door locking switches are situated on the door armrest and all these felt enveloping around me, but the cabin was wide enough, to not feel claustrophobic, the Blue and me and MY CAR Function Switches are located on the steering wheel and also on the dashboard on the extreme right side under the steering wheel.

Attachment 84379

And no the Car haven't been stripped of any of it's features all that you see in the picture is there in the car.


The Overall fit and finish of the product seemed good, but still there were some grouches that can be seen in the car like the Steering column cover which had many unfinished rough edges and panel gaps, But the Steering wheel was Very good to hold and it had really good shape. The Rear seat space was "okay" and the seat reclining angle was very comfy, the ride in the back was unbelievable comfortable especially after getting rides in the competition cars. Even when going over speedbrakers or large potholes never did the Linea lose it's composure or give out loud noises when the suspensions bottomed out with 5 heavyweights in the car. The Ground Clearance of 161mm for the diesel car maybe a little problem but on the bright side the Skoda Octys are running around with 138mm GC , so that might not be much of a problem. The Petrol car's Ground Clearance is 165mm.

The Power Delivery from the Diesel Engines was smooth and It was very quite inside, outside there isn't much noise except for the usual Fiat Engine cooling fan which is soooo loud and it makes a huge racket just like in the Palio/Uno etc. Also the Fan's angle of deflection is same as that in the Uno/Palio which means all the Dust/dirt that is on the ground gets blown up and there is something like a sandstorm when the car is around. Typical Fiat Problem. Other than that the Engines were quite good, The diesel engine's Turbo lag is very low or unnoticeable, I just kept on flooring the throttle expecting the Swoosh like in the Swift/Palios but I was amazed when nothing like that happened till the redline at 5000RPM. The Diesel felt quick enough for that car, Maybe A Pete's Tuning box can be of much help to this car. The Petrol Engine felt Creamy Smooth and it sounded sexy, and there was adequate amounts of torque too but somehow, it felt underpowered to my taste after all 94.2PS is not something to write home about.

So the only question that remains now is, Is the Linea a better buy than the All New Honda City? Except for the engine everything is yes, then again there is no auto transmission even as an option, the engine is underpowered when compared to the ANHC,The built quality though much more solid than a Honda any day lacks the quality of the Honda. The service will be another aspect which we will have to wait and see, but I don't expect any miracles to happen in this part of the story, all the parts of this car is said to be heavily subsided up to 40% ,localization is still going on to keep the affordability factor in hand, the service intervals are quite long at 15000km between a service, the warranty is amazing at 80,000km or 1.5 years which can be extended to 3yrs or 1.5Lakh Kilometers.

The other cars like the SX4,Verna or the Fiesta don't even come into the picture in my opinion because of the unbelievable pricing of this car. The SX4 being too bland, the Verna Being bouncy, the Fiesta being too cramped, But it's just my opinion. This car like all the other cars when launched will have its own honeymoon period, when it will be selling like hotcakes for no particular reason, let’s wait and see that's all that I can say.

This is the Make or Break point for Fiat, If all goes well we can see the Grande Punto in 4 months time I guess ,but now your guess is as good as mine. As one of the Fiat India Production head said "If the Linea doesn’t do as well as we expected we can just pack up and leave".

Cheerscheers:

Muneem
Ex-Fiat Guy.

new ANHC A/T review

it’s been a month since I got my new city automatic and thought I would start a review on my ownership with it.
The car has completed 2300 kms and the first service has been done last week.

It’s been an absolute pleasure to drive it around the city and on the highways. The auto tranny is very useful in the bumper to bumper traffic. The auto eases and makes life easier to drive in the mad traffic out there and it is effortlessly exciting to drive it in the city. Shift it to the ‘D’ mode to enjoy a smooth and comfortable drive in the city traffic. With almost 70km daily driving in city, this is exactly what the doctor ordered!

The engine is smooth as a butter, very very silent with none or very little vibrations getting inside the cabin. The cabin is well insulated from the outside noise as well. Could not hear any wind noise inside the cabin even at speeds above 100 kms/hr.

On the highways, shift into the S mode or use the paddle shift and you are rewarded with a powerful acceleration from the machine. She gets through her paces real quick. Engaging the paddleshift anytime to get the surge in acceleration is exciting.

Redlining her is joy. The engine starts to get vocal at about 3500 RPM and by the time it crosses 5500 RPM you are greeted with the typical Honda snarl, the engine note is real music to the ears. But I have heard the OHC vtec’s growl much louder!!

Managed to get her to 160 Km/Hr effortlessly in the ‘D’ Mode. The car is very stable at high speeds. The aerodynamic nature of the car helps prevents any loud boomy wind noise at high speeds. You hardly realize what speed you are doing until you glance at the Speedo which shows the motor spinning, lazily at 3000 RPM and the speed is 140 Km/Hr!!

The auto transmission can be driven in 3 ways,
1)D mode - engage and the machine decides, when to shift cogs. A gentle tab at the accelerator pedal, initiates the kickdown to give more acceleration if required. Apart from this you can temporarily override the auto and get instant power at the click of your finger! Using the paddle shift. It returns to auto mode after sometime.A mode where you leave on time and reach on time!

2)S mode - engage this mode for some spirited driving. The gear change in this mode is at higher RPM, more acceleration, engine vocal most of the time, snarling as the tacho begins to climb. Engaging the paddle shift in this mode, will bring the car in a full manual mode. Start late, reach early mode!

3)Paddle shift - engage this mode to unleash hell. Yes!! you get to exploit the whole revv band of the engine , and the revvs are held till the redline and more, after it hits revv limiter the car does give some kind of slight jerks to let you know she is not happy, you upshift and she is happy again! The car remains in manual mode till you engage the D mode. This mode is most exciting to drive. Haven’t used the mode, much as of yet.Upshifts are fully manual and the downshifts are semi auto.You are already there mode!

The paddle shifts are fun to use, especially in the Ghats. Putting the car to test on winding roads was a revelation and she performed much better than I expected. The car handles well on the bends at decent high speeds.

The steering is also feels nice at high speeds; a hydraulic or equivalent would have been perfect. The steering is superlight at slow speeds and as the speed increases it sort of stiffens. negotiating turns and lane changes or taking sharp turns or some hard cornering It does not feel scary.

The suspension is on the firmer side, which aides handling. It bottoms out on big speed breakers with full load and every time it does that my heart skips a beat!! Very annoying! Ride quality is pretty decent and nothing to boast about. The suspension being firm shake you a little bit on crater ridden roads.
The MRF rubbers it came with provide a good grip but are noisy at high speeds. An upsize/upgrade will make the cornering more confidence inspiring.
The ride is a little bouncy on some uneven concrete roads, not sure if the tyres are to be blamed here!
Brakes with more bite could have been better!
Music system, with the usb thingy is quite useful as I have lots of music in mp3’s.
Again the AC, The leg space, boot space are decent and nothing to complain about.
Seats are quite comfortable in the fronts as well as the rear. I love the driving position in the car and it is spot on.
I have done 2 highway trips in the car and both occasion blasted the engine and high revving it most of the time. The fuel economy was about 11 +. In the city it’s averaging about 11. All the time with 100% AC. Sounds ok to me.
To summarize on a positive note I can say that the I-Vtec Engine coupled with the Auto transmission offers a great driving dynamics in a comfortable manner with a low NVH makes it a great driving machine.
I see lot of features is offered in the other Asian countries like Thailand and Malaysia missing in the Indian version. Like rear seat 60:40 split and a feature to recline the rear seat further. What was Honda thinking of not offering these features in India, how would split/reclining rear seats have increased costs for Honda!!
No ACC and alloys being the other major negatives.

My other ride, is a ford fusion, which was my daily driver till the Honda came, it is nearing 50 K, is a hoot to drive and have to say that the stick rules!! For comfort and effortless driving the auto has an edge though.

I would use this thread to continue updating the ownership experience.
uploading few pics.

Thanks and regards,

how to wash your lovely car?

Regular washing and cleaning:

Don’t pour buckets of water on your car. It’s of no use, and a serious offence when it comes to water conservation. Honestly speaking, you don’t need more than three buckets of water to clean your car on a normal day.

Use a separate cloth for the body and for the wheels. The yellow/brown shade cloth that we get at traffic signals is useless. Instead, buy the other cloth (mostly blue) that has a typical Indian towel feel. Dip that new cloth in boiling water with detergent to get rid of unwanted starch and lint. This will also help it to become softer. Your new cloth is now ready to be used.

1. Soak the cloth in water (don’t squeeze) and wipe your car’s body with a light hand. Once you’re through with washing the entire car, clean the cloth in fresh water and start wiping the body dry. A good soft cloth should remove all watermarks from the body. Take one portion of the body at a time.

2. With a separate cloth; wash inside the mudguard thoroughly (atleast twice a week), the running board (also known as the door panel) and under the bumpers (not visible to most people).

3. Use a vacuum cleaner to clean the floor carpet at least once a week. Wash floor mats regularly, if need be.

4. After a long trip or the monsoons, take the car to a service station and wash the under body. Rubber coating helps (at the cost of spending INR 4000 to INR 5000). Additional value of the rubber treatment is its
noise-deadening quality.

Few points to remember:

- Don’t keep washing your car under the sun.
- Pour water on your windshield to loosen dust and hard particles.
- Try to avoid hard water (from the bore well) as much as possible. It’s the fastest way to make your paint fade and to invite corrosion.
- Use newspaper (black & white) to clean the glass.
- Remove road tar spots with diesel-soaked cloth.
- Alloys (coated with brake pad dust) should be washed with detergent. Use a soft toothbrush to clean those hard-to-reach areas.

ARTICLE: Extended Warranties. Yes or No?

ARTICLE: Extended Warranties. Yes or No?
Team-BHP believes that warranties are a true expression of a manufacturer’s confidence in its car. Why does Fiat India only offer a one-year standard warranty? Why do Mercedes India and Skoda India not offer any extended warranty plans at all? It’s probably not a coincidence that their cars are the most expensive to service and maintain.

Standard warranties range from one to two years in India, though most cars now sold also have extended warranty plans available for a price. Are these extended warranties really worthwhile? You may be surprised, but they are. Team-BHP highly recommends you opt for extended warranty coverage.

The fact is that no matter how reliable modern cars are, their components are still expensive to replace. Unlike older model cars, it is seldom possible to repair or refurbish a broken part; replacement is generally the only option. It is not uncommon for electrical and mechanical parts to fail unexpectedly and even the pinnacle of reliability, Honda, has had fuel pump problems (worth Rs.20 000 or more) with the new Honda City and Accord. Air-conditioner compressors can cost over Rs.40 000 and defective engines and transmissions are even more expensive.

For only a couple of thousand rupees – between 0.5% - 2% of the purchase price of your car – you can buy the peace of the mind associated with an extended warranty that covers your car for up to twice the length of the standard warranty. An extended warranty is an insurance policy for your vehicle and a safeguard against expensive and unforeseen repairs.


Points to consider:


• When should you buy the extended warranty? We suggest starting the extended coverage with the delivery of your car. Don’t wait until later – some plans have restrictions on renewal or you may just forget.

• Is the standard coverage enough? If the standard warranty is for two years or 50 000 km and you plan to keep your car for two or three years and 20 – 30 000 km, then an extended warranty makes little sense. However, if you plan to keep your car for long after the standard warranty then an extended warranty is worth considering.

• What’s the reliability record of the model you’re purchasing?

• Who backs the warranty you’re considering? You may be buying a manufacturer’s extended warranty or an aftermarket extended warranty offered by your dealer. Knowing who underwrites your policy can help you understand the value of the warranty you’re considering: manufacturer-backed warranties score very highly when it comes to convenience and trust. Some dealers offer only an aftermarket warranty; if they do not initially offer a manufacturer warranty you should specifically for one.

• Is the warranty transferable? Some extended warranties end when you sell your car. A warranty that lets you transfer it to a new owner is an excellent selling point for prospective buyers.

• Can repairs be performed anywhere? Some contracts state that repairs must be performed at the dealership from which the warranty was purchased; this can be very inconvenient. It’s best to opt for a warranty that gives you at least a few service locations to choose from. You’ll appreciate the flexibility when your car needs work while on a road trip far from home.

• What exactly is covered? Know what’s covered – and not covered – with the extended warranty you’re considering. Make sure to check that the service contract covers breakdown as well as wear and tear. Before committing to a warranty, take time to explore the coverage. The differences between two plans might seem slight, but they can prove crucial.

Team-BHP feels that the relatively small cost of purchasing an extended warranty will save you money in the long run. Say “yes” to an extended warranty.

ARTICLE: How to get the lowest EMI & the best Finance Deal

ARTICLE: How to get the lowest EMI & the best Finance Deal
With a never-ending stream of automotive launches and a plethora of financing options to choose from, it is now easier than ever before to buy a new car. Be warned, however: your urge to buy also makes it easy for financial companies to fleece you. Competition is fierce in the automotive market; be sure to use it to your advantage.

Team-BHP shows you how to get the best possible financing deal for your shiny new wheels:

1. Shop around: While this advice seems obvious, it is often ignored: getting rates from several brokers and car dealerships is the key to a good deal. If you intend to buy a Honda in Mumbai, bargain with Ichibaan / Linkway / Arya and any others. When you ask for your quote, tell the vendor that you intend to shop around and be certain that they know you are serious about buying. Casual inquiries take up a lot of time for dealers; an inquiry with good sales potential will make them bend over backwards for you.

2. Negotiate: Many people don't realize this, but if you want a great financing deal you will have to negotiate for it. Negotiate hard. Pit at least three competing quotes against each other and start bargaining with each vendor. You will be surprised at how quickly the offered equalized monthly installment (EMI) payment will drop in the course of an hour of simple bargaining. And its a LOT of fun too!

3. Targets: Start negotiating in the third week of the month. Most Indian agents have monthly targets and generally save the best rates for last minute deals to fill their quota.

4. Other accounts with the same institution: Leverage any existing relationship (credit cards, investments, etc) that you have with your financial institution. Most banks will offer a 1 - 2% discount based on the fact that you are already a known quantity to them.

5. Do not take the interest rate at face value: When your broker says that his great interest rate has been calculated "just for you", you don't have to take his word for it. Use any one of a number of online calculators to compare; chances are, your broker is bluffing.

6. Manufacturer financing plans: Some manufacturers offer financing plans that are less expensive than broker or dealership options. For e.g. the Tata finance option.

7. Nationalised banks: Nationalised banks like the State Bank of India have very competitive auto-loan packages that usually offer the best rates and terms, especially if you have an existing relationship with them. Meet with your branch manager for a quote.

8. Hidden fees: In today's competitive market there is no such thing as a processing fee for a car loan. Ask for an all-inclusive quote and check the fine print for hidden charges. These miscellaneous fees can amount to thousands of rupees. You will also see a difference in stamp duty charges etc. from one proposal to the other.

9. Do NOT opt for ECS: Even though automatic electronic withdrawal from your bank account is supposed to make life easier, the system is not yet a 100% reliable in India. Make your loan payments the old-fashioned way with cheques and read the Team-BHP forum discussion on ECS for more details.

10. Be wary of unauthorised dealerships: Even if you get a great financing offer, check to see who will be delivering your car. Some Direct Sales Agents (DSAs) have connections to unauthorised dealerships. These dealers often engage in shady practices like supplying counterfeit spares and are generally not worth buying from.

11. Pre-payment penalties: Some banks charge rates as high as 5% of the total loan amount if you pay off your loan early. Check to see if your bank included a pre-payment penalty in the contract and ask for a waiver / reduction if you intend to pay the loan early.

12. Maintain a good credit history: Financial institutions in India maintain a central database to keep track of your credit history. It is essential to keep a clean credit record by paying credit card bills and other loan EMIs on time.

13. Loan against fixed deposits: If you or your family has invested in fixed deposits, you are in luck. Taking a loan against fixed deposits leads to very lucrative interest rates, minimal paperwork (if at all) and flexible repayment plans. Banks usually give loans against fixed deposits at a +1 interest rate.

Happy hunting for the lowest EMI!

EDIT : Added a superb "Loan Amortization Schedule" excel sheet to this post; members can download the same. Thanks to BHPian nikunj_cal for sharing it with us. It will help you to calculate the EMI for different loan amounts, juggle between interest rates, calculate total interest, calculate foreclosure charges and so on