Honda plans to raise car prices in India
The Honda Siel CEO sees the downturn lasting for another 6 months & points out that his firm caters to buyers in the premium segment, where the impact of an economic slowdown is tempered
New Delhi: Faced with a contracting demand for cars in India, Honda Motor Co.’s unit here expects to raise prices on its models and maintain slower production for the next six months, even as it keeps its plans for its small car, christened Jazz, unchanged.“Devaluation of rupee is impacting our business because 20-25% of our components are imported from Japan and Thailand. We need to adjust this cost impact,” Masahiro Takedagawa, president and chief executive of Honda Siel Cars India Ltd, said late on Saturday evening at a company awards function. “For the CRV it (the price increase) will be substantial.”
Honda Siel is working out the price increase for the other models but customers who had ordered the new model of the Honda City will be protected. Launched in November, the City, which has sold 12,233 units, helped Honda lessen the impact of the slowdown.‘Devaluation of rupee is impacting our business because 20-25% of our components are imported from Japan, Thailand.’In the Indian market consumer confidence has come back slightly, Takedagawa added. Still, the company has seen sales of its models, other than the City, decline sharply. Its total sales in January fell by one-fourth, to 5,773 units when compared with the same month last year. This resulted in the company cutting production at its Greater Noida facility, which is operating on a single shift from the start of this year. It now makes about 200 cars a day instead of the earlier 380 cars.
The production cuts have helped the company trim its inventory to four weeks. Once car sales pick up, it’ll take Honda two months to get back to a two shift production schedule, Takedagawa said. The Honda Siel CEO sees the downturn lasting for another six months and points out that his firm caters to buyers in the premium segment, where the impact of an economic slowdown is tempered. Even so, “customers are concerned with global economy so they have become naturally cautious”, he said.
Honda continues to push ahead with plans to launch the Jazz, a premium hatchback car. Trial production has started, Takedagawa said. Its 1.2 litre engine has been tailored to Indian regulations to avail of a 12.5% tax rebate.
Like its global counterparts, Toyota Motor Co. and General Motors Corp., Honda has also been wracked by slowing sales in India. But unlike them, it managed to close 2008 with a positive growth in unit sales due to its bike business.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Friday, April 17, 2009
THINKING OUT OF THE BOX IS WAY TO SOLVE MUMBAI TRAFFIC
hello friends . one of my relative had recently mailed a letter to the head of
Mumbai Traffic Police with an unique idea for solving our congetion problem in our city . the unique idea of thinking out of the box by dividing roads in three parts.below is the the letter written .
Dear Mr. Athawale,
First of all, I must congratulate Mumbai Traffic Police for their patience in managing traffic not only during festive season but on a day to day basis. The constables who are their on the streets of Mumbai really put all of efforts to manage traffic in return of a very little recognition. I have tried to look at the traffic problem between Nariman Point to Andheri to begin with special attention to Mahim/ Bandra. If successful, similar study can also be done at other location. The below mentioned study is keeping in mind that it will take some time for infrastructure to be in place and in the meanwhile lot of congetion may take place due to construction activities.
We have always divided our roads in two parts. May be because there was never a need to look at it in a different way. However, with increasing traffic, we need to think out of box and one such measure is to divide road in three parts. As Mumbai is a linear city, movement of traffic is mainly in one direction. As such, for optimum utilization of road, we may look at option of dividing roads in three parts. An experiment for the same can be made at Bandra – Mahim creek bridge, wherein two lanes can be used for south bound traffic and one towards north bound up to 2pm and two lanes can be used for north bound traffic and one towards south bound post 2pm.
TRAFFIC MEASURES
Short Term Measures
North bound one way from Babulnath to Haji Ali on Pedar Road
North bound one way from Worli Naka to Mahim Church on Dr. Anne Besant Road
South bound one way from Mahim Church to Haji Ali on Tulsi Pipe Road
South bound one way from Haji Ali towards Kennedy Bridge
South bound one way from Kennedy Bridge towards Churchgate at Maharshi Karve Rd
No Right Turn from Mahim Church to Bandra
No Right Turn from Bandra Reclamation to Mahim
No left turn from Bandra East Flyover to Mahim church side
No Right Turn from Shivsagar Estate at Worli towards Haji Ali
One way on Cooper Hospital/ Alfa Road from SV Road to Cooper Hospital
Minimise Right turn at various road eg. Glaxo Junction, Bandra Linking Road,
No heavy vehicles to be allowed on bridges as far as possible.
Phase II on success of above
Complete One way on Linking Road towards North
Complete One way on Mithibai College Road towards South
Mid Term Measures
A Motor sub way below western express highway opposite Milan sub way
A flyover connecting Andheri flyover to Regency Hotel Turn
Joining Bandra Station west to Tulsi Pipe Road at Mahim
A road between Juhu Lane and Bhavans college at Andheri (west
written by rajendra mehta
Mumbai Traffic Police with an unique idea for solving our congetion problem in our city . the unique idea of thinking out of the box by dividing roads in three parts.below is the the letter written .
Dear Mr. Athawale,
First of all, I must congratulate Mumbai Traffic Police for their patience in managing traffic not only during festive season but on a day to day basis. The constables who are their on the streets of Mumbai really put all of efforts to manage traffic in return of a very little recognition. I have tried to look at the traffic problem between Nariman Point to Andheri to begin with special attention to Mahim/ Bandra. If successful, similar study can also be done at other location. The below mentioned study is keeping in mind that it will take some time for infrastructure to be in place and in the meanwhile lot of congetion may take place due to construction activities.
We have always divided our roads in two parts. May be because there was never a need to look at it in a different way. However, with increasing traffic, we need to think out of box and one such measure is to divide road in three parts. As Mumbai is a linear city, movement of traffic is mainly in one direction. As such, for optimum utilization of road, we may look at option of dividing roads in three parts. An experiment for the same can be made at Bandra – Mahim creek bridge, wherein two lanes can be used for south bound traffic and one towards north bound up to 2pm and two lanes can be used for north bound traffic and one towards south bound post 2pm.
TRAFFIC MEASURES
Short Term Measures
North bound one way from Babulnath to Haji Ali on Pedar Road
North bound one way from Worli Naka to Mahim Church on Dr. Anne Besant Road
South bound one way from Mahim Church to Haji Ali on Tulsi Pipe Road
South bound one way from Haji Ali towards Kennedy Bridge
South bound one way from Kennedy Bridge towards Churchgate at Maharshi Karve Rd
No Right Turn from Mahim Church to Bandra
No Right Turn from Bandra Reclamation to Mahim
No left turn from Bandra East Flyover to Mahim church side
No Right Turn from Shivsagar Estate at Worli towards Haji Ali
One way on Cooper Hospital/ Alfa Road from SV Road to Cooper Hospital
Minimise Right turn at various road eg. Glaxo Junction, Bandra Linking Road,
No heavy vehicles to be allowed on bridges as far as possible.
Phase II on success of above
Complete One way on Linking Road towards North
Complete One way on Mithibai College Road towards South
Mid Term Measures
A Motor sub way below western express highway opposite Milan sub way
A flyover connecting Andheri flyover to Regency Hotel Turn
Joining Bandra Station west to Tulsi Pipe Road at Mahim
A road between Juhu Lane and Bhavans college at Andheri (west
written by rajendra mehta
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Mumbai Towing Service: Is this how our cars are towed?
I was just walking to a place near my house, and I found a car being towed. I took some photos. Let them speak for themselves. I have only one word to say. ABYSMAL! Just look at the way the car has been towed.
Nowadays no one can expect any sort of good work from this department. They are money hungry rascals who only work for money. JUST look at the flex on the poor bumper!
The shameless buggers didn't even object to me taking photos. I guess the 'chalta hai' attitude again. Miffs me to no end.
Photos!
Nowadays no one can expect any sort of good work from this department. They are money hungry rascals who only work for money. JUST look at the flex on the poor bumper!
The shameless buggers didn't even object to me taking photos. I guess the 'chalta hai' attitude again. Miffs me to no end.
Photos!
cng vs lpg .... guess who wins it ?
petrol prices are sky rocketing. Does this leave you with Diesel as the only economical option? NO! Times have changed! Presenting the new age car fuel alternatives – CNG and LPG; apart from being lighter on your pocket, these options are also environment-friendly.
Team-BHP explains the pros and cons of each fuel, as also about the issue as a whole.
With the Indian government providing several benefits on CNG and LPG, it is no surprise that buses and taxis in several metros have switched over. From easy availability to high subsidies, the government is providing complete support to these fuel preferences. As shown in the recent budget, bio-diesel is also given political preference now. Naturally, auto manufacturers have taken advantage of this and they now offer factory fitted options. However, some manufacturers like Maruti Suzuki prefer LPG where as others like Chevy & Ford opt for CNG.
Why opt for Gas?:
• Lowest running costs (compared to other fuel alternatives like diesel)
• Cleaner emissions
• Better resale value (in the case of factory-fitted kits only)
• Complete manufacturer-support available
• Any time switch over to petrol is possible
Factors that may hold you back:
• Initial investment in setup
• Reduced boot space
• Compromised power delivery
• Limited availability (compared to petrol and diesel). Few highways have consistent supplies. Also, some towns may not have any supply at all.
• Longer waits at the fuel pump
Are Natural Gas powered vehicles safe?
Natural Gas is an ideal fuel source for many reasons, including safety. Natural Gas is lighter than air. This means that it will not puddle (like petrol) which is heavier than air. Instead, Natural Gas will rise and dissipate in the atmosphere. Natural gas also has a higher ignition temperature. This means that it is much harder to ignite. Also the storage systems used for CNG and LPG are stronger than the petrol tanks found on cars and trucks today.
Want to switch? Here’s what you should do:
Consult the professionals at authorised high-quality service stations for the correct advice. Agreeably, this may cost you about 20% higher compared to your local unauthorised service station. But compared to the authenticity of the advice, reliability of the fittings and efficiency of the system, this price differential is well worth it. Team-BHP recommends only manufacturer-fitted kits or those from authorised service stations. Also, Please strictly AVOID the illegal LPG domestic-cylinder conversions.
Remember to:
• Endorse your registration certificate accordingly.
• Notify your insurance company. The premium may also go up marginally.
• If yours is a brand new car, you may stand to lose warranty coverage (even if the fitting is from an authorised service station
Team-BHP explains the pros and cons of each fuel, as also about the issue as a whole.
With the Indian government providing several benefits on CNG and LPG, it is no surprise that buses and taxis in several metros have switched over. From easy availability to high subsidies, the government is providing complete support to these fuel preferences. As shown in the recent budget, bio-diesel is also given political preference now. Naturally, auto manufacturers have taken advantage of this and they now offer factory fitted options. However, some manufacturers like Maruti Suzuki prefer LPG where as others like Chevy & Ford opt for CNG.
Why opt for Gas?:
• Lowest running costs (compared to other fuel alternatives like diesel)
• Cleaner emissions
• Better resale value (in the case of factory-fitted kits only)
• Complete manufacturer-support available
• Any time switch over to petrol is possible
Factors that may hold you back:
• Initial investment in setup
• Reduced boot space
• Compromised power delivery
• Limited availability (compared to petrol and diesel). Few highways have consistent supplies. Also, some towns may not have any supply at all.
• Longer waits at the fuel pump
Are Natural Gas powered vehicles safe?
Natural Gas is an ideal fuel source for many reasons, including safety. Natural Gas is lighter than air. This means that it will not puddle (like petrol) which is heavier than air. Instead, Natural Gas will rise and dissipate in the atmosphere. Natural gas also has a higher ignition temperature. This means that it is much harder to ignite. Also the storage systems used for CNG and LPG are stronger than the petrol tanks found on cars and trucks today.
Want to switch? Here’s what you should do:
Consult the professionals at authorised high-quality service stations for the correct advice. Agreeably, this may cost you about 20% higher compared to your local unauthorised service station. But compared to the authenticity of the advice, reliability of the fittings and efficiency of the system, this price differential is well worth it. Team-BHP recommends only manufacturer-fitted kits or those from authorised service stations. Also, Please strictly AVOID the illegal LPG domestic-cylinder conversions.
Remember to:
• Endorse your registration certificate accordingly.
• Notify your insurance company. The premium may also go up marginally.
• If yours is a brand new car, you may stand to lose warranty coverage (even if the fitting is from an authorised service station
ARTICLE: How to Buy and live with a Superbike in India
While you can buy a Ferrari F430, Porsche 911 Turbo and even a 4 crore rupee Rolls Royce Phantom off-the-shelf in India, the same simplicity does not apply to a superbike purchase. For some unfathomable reasons, the bike industry has not kept up with its automotive counterparts and the Yamahas and Hondas of the world seem content with selling 100cc economy motorcycles. For the enthusiast, however, this is hardly a deterrent as several grey market options are available. The options also come with their own disadvantages as the grey market is full of uncertainty and disorganization. While superbikes attract an import duty (customs) of 142% (used) or 88% (new), the market is very unpredictable. A correct and well-informed approach will go a long way in ensuring peace-of-mind with your superbike purchase.
Team-BHP shows you the formalities in buying / living with a superbike, and the measures you must implement to ensuring a hassle-free ownership experience.
Disclaimer: We use the term “Superbike” here as a blanket term to cover all forms of 2 wheeled imports. Strictly speaking, the term “Superbike” is applied to sports bikes with an engine capacity of 750cc or over.
The most important part first: Paperwork!
1. A lot depends on how reliable the seller is, what condition the bike is in and how clean the paperwork is. Search within the Team-BHP community for information on reputed superbike merchants and ask around in biker circles for recommendations. The reputation of a seller is very important.
2. An overwhelming 99% of import bikes in India are brought down via the “transfer of residence” route, wherein an Indian, living abroad for a certain period of time, is allowed to bring back the vehicle that he was using there (for a reduced percentage of duty). Under the “Transfer or residence” route, the vehicle cannot be sold for 2 years from the time of registering it in India.
3. Therefore, the first step is to verify the age of the bike and ensure that it is more than 2 years since it has been brought into the country. Remember, it doesn't matter how old the bike is; it is the date of registration in India that is to be considered. This important step ensures that the superbike can be registered in your name.
4. The second unspoken rule is to look out for where the bike has been registered. It is widely accepted that bikes imported and registered in Mumbai (MH-01/02) are considered as the cleanest imports. Bikes with “MP” and “KA” registration plates are to be looked at very cautiously.
5. Different states and cities have different ways of registering vehicles. For example, Mumbai issues a proper RC book (Registration Certificate) which includes all details about the vehicle as well as the import document numbers, bill of entry details, bill of lading number, passport details of the original importer etc. The RC book also keeps a record of the number of buyers. The RC book will also make a note of the declared value of the bike, the duty paid and all tax charges that have been cleared.
6. Very often dealers/brokers/owners will tell you that the original bill of entry was submitted to the RTO at the time of registration. This is absolute rubbish. The concerned authority generates three copies of the bill of entry; one stays with them, one goes to the RTO for registration and the last copy stays with the bike owner.
7. Many superbike owners do not register the bikes to their name. They simply hold on to the transfer papers and ride the bike for a few months before selling it to someone else. Make it a point to try and buy a bike from a person who has transferred it to their name as this shows that the owner is not a use & throw kind of rider, and the bike would have been maintained in a better way.
8. In the case of an out-of-state purchase, insist on an NOC (No Objection Certificate) from the RTO where the bike was registered. Without this, you will not be able to transfer the bike to your name or sell it on to anyone else.
9. What you have to watch out for are the bikes that are imported as parts, and then assembled here. In some cases, you will find that the RC book data would not correspond to the bike's data (engine/chassis numbers, make of the bike etc.). Many “baggage bikes”, as these are popularly called, do have the correct details (colour, engine cc, imported vehicle information, etc) of the assembled bike on the RC. Therefore, the key points to look out for are the Passport details of the importer and corresponding bill of entry number being mentioned on the RC book.
10. Buying older bikes is inherently safer as these bikes are now too old for the officials to really bother about. Also, chances are that the bikes have already been through the system a few times between owners and any problems would have come to light earlier.
Most major superbike manufacturers such as Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki and Suzuki are expected to offer superbikes officially on sale in India. We await that moment with open arms but until then, the above-mentioned route is the only way for you to own your dream machine.
Team-BHP shows you the formalities in buying / living with a superbike, and the measures you must implement to ensuring a hassle-free ownership experience.
Disclaimer: We use the term “Superbike” here as a blanket term to cover all forms of 2 wheeled imports. Strictly speaking, the term “Superbike” is applied to sports bikes with an engine capacity of 750cc or over.
The most important part first: Paperwork!
1. A lot depends on how reliable the seller is, what condition the bike is in and how clean the paperwork is. Search within the Team-BHP community for information on reputed superbike merchants and ask around in biker circles for recommendations. The reputation of a seller is very important.
2. An overwhelming 99% of import bikes in India are brought down via the “transfer of residence” route, wherein an Indian, living abroad for a certain period of time, is allowed to bring back the vehicle that he was using there (for a reduced percentage of duty). Under the “Transfer or residence” route, the vehicle cannot be sold for 2 years from the time of registering it in India.
3. Therefore, the first step is to verify the age of the bike and ensure that it is more than 2 years since it has been brought into the country. Remember, it doesn't matter how old the bike is; it is the date of registration in India that is to be considered. This important step ensures that the superbike can be registered in your name.
4. The second unspoken rule is to look out for where the bike has been registered. It is widely accepted that bikes imported and registered in Mumbai (MH-01/02) are considered as the cleanest imports. Bikes with “MP” and “KA” registration plates are to be looked at very cautiously.
5. Different states and cities have different ways of registering vehicles. For example, Mumbai issues a proper RC book (Registration Certificate) which includes all details about the vehicle as well as the import document numbers, bill of entry details, bill of lading number, passport details of the original importer etc. The RC book also keeps a record of the number of buyers. The RC book will also make a note of the declared value of the bike, the duty paid and all tax charges that have been cleared.
6. Very often dealers/brokers/owners will tell you that the original bill of entry was submitted to the RTO at the time of registration. This is absolute rubbish. The concerned authority generates three copies of the bill of entry; one stays with them, one goes to the RTO for registration and the last copy stays with the bike owner.
7. Many superbike owners do not register the bikes to their name. They simply hold on to the transfer papers and ride the bike for a few months before selling it to someone else. Make it a point to try and buy a bike from a person who has transferred it to their name as this shows that the owner is not a use & throw kind of rider, and the bike would have been maintained in a better way.
8. In the case of an out-of-state purchase, insist on an NOC (No Objection Certificate) from the RTO where the bike was registered. Without this, you will not be able to transfer the bike to your name or sell it on to anyone else.
9. What you have to watch out for are the bikes that are imported as parts, and then assembled here. In some cases, you will find that the RC book data would not correspond to the bike's data (engine/chassis numbers, make of the bike etc.). Many “baggage bikes”, as these are popularly called, do have the correct details (colour, engine cc, imported vehicle information, etc) of the assembled bike on the RC. Therefore, the key points to look out for are the Passport details of the importer and corresponding bill of entry number being mentioned on the RC book.
10. Buying older bikes is inherently safer as these bikes are now too old for the officials to really bother about. Also, chances are that the bikes have already been through the system a few times between owners and any problems would have come to light earlier.
Most major superbike manufacturers such as Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki and Suzuki are expected to offer superbikes officially on sale in India. We await that moment with open arms but until then, the above-mentioned route is the only way for you to own your dream machine.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Safe Driving in the rains
As a country of extreme weather conditions and inadequate road infrastructure, India can offer some truly brutal driving conditions in the rainy season. At Team-BHP, safety is an absolute first. We do hope that the following tips & guidelines help you toward safer motoring in the rains.
Important
• Be twice as considerate to two-wheelers! Not only are they completely exposed to the rains, but neither do they have the same braking / grip levels as your car. Don't tail bikes either. They are prone to slips / falls and we don't want you to run over them.
• Likewise for pedestrians. In rainy conditions, pedestrians are extremely hard to spot. Also, please don’t splash water on pedestrians.
• Plan the journey such that you reach your destination within daylight hours.
• When possible, stay off the roads during heavy rains. If you are on the road and visibility gets worse, park someplace safe, get a cup of coffee and wait for the rains to simmer down.
• Don’t park anywhere on the road, or close to where other cars would pass you. Poor visibility could result in someone banging into your car. The ideal place to park would be one that’s off a street and at a level higher than the road. If you are parking only for a short time, switch your parking lights on.
• For overnight parking, choose a clean area and one that's away from rodents. Corner / isolated spots are best avoided. During the rains, rats take shelter under the hood and chew on wires.
Important
• Be twice as considerate to two-wheelers! Not only are they completely exposed to the rains, but neither do they have the same braking / grip levels as your car. Don't tail bikes either. They are prone to slips / falls and we don't want you to run over them.
• Likewise for pedestrians. In rainy conditions, pedestrians are extremely hard to spot. Also, please don’t splash water on pedestrians.
• Plan the journey such that you reach your destination within daylight hours.
• When possible, stay off the roads during heavy rains. If you are on the road and visibility gets worse, park someplace safe, get a cup of coffee and wait for the rains to simmer down.
• Don’t park anywhere on the road, or close to where other cars would pass you. Poor visibility could result in someone banging into your car. The ideal place to park would be one that’s off a street and at a level higher than the road. If you are parking only for a short time, switch your parking lights on.
• For overnight parking, choose a clean area and one that's away from rodents. Corner / isolated spots are best avoided. During the rains, rats take shelter under the hood and chew on wires.
Monday, April 13, 2009
which steps needs to be taken before modification
• Remember to practice SAFE DRIVING on public roads! With additional power comes the need for additional responsibility. Keep the racing restricted to track days and in other forms of competition (within a controlled environment).
• Enroll with a professional rally / racing / driving school. This will not only make you a faster driver but also a safer one. To quote a popular Pirelli tagline : Power is nothing without control.
• Ensure that you are with the right tuner. The quality of install and product is most important. Get your work done only by a tuner who has the relevant knowledge, infrastructure and dedication to carry out a high quality installation. The product quality is equally important and it is generally recommended to stick to reputed brands (wherever available). A bad modification can actually make your car slower than in stock tune. Poor reliability may also result from a bad installation, causing a great amount of heart-burn to you.
• Remember that the engine is a very complex system and each component has to work in harmony with everything else. Only then will you benefit from the performance modifications.
• Tune your car via a step-by-step method. This will allow you to gauge improvements in an incremental manner and fine-tune one modification before moving on to the next.
• Choose a “mod-friendly” car to start with. Most Japanese brands like the Hondas and Suzuki’s have tremendous after-market support in terms of parts availability and tuner capability. Simply put, there are some cars which inherently respond better to performance tuning. On the other hand, it is a pointless exercise trying to make heavy cars like the Contessa or a Mahindra Jeep go any faster! Pick your car based on what you want to achieve.
• Beware of cheap “go-fast” gimmicks like the Surbo and electric superchargers, which are nothing but an absolute waste of money. Common sense plays a vital role out here; why would you need a DTM corner slammer on a front wheel drive car that spends most of its time below 120 kph.
• Remember that Vitamin M (or Money!!) runs the show. Tuning your car can be an expensive proposition, so outline a detailed budget before moving on from stage to stage. Not only will the modifications cost you big $$$, but lowered fuel efficiency (almost certain) will cause another dent on your wallet. Some highly-modified cars or engines running an increased compression ratio may also require high-octane fuel to run efficiently.
• Invest in a popular timing device like the G-Tech series. This range of timing equipment will help you to gauge the benefits of your modification, and whether that actually translated into making your car faster.
• Remember that your warranty will almost certainly be nullified, if your car is within the coverage period.
• Think before you try to alleviate the visual appeal of your car via body kits and spoilers. Be warned that a badly-designed body kit will ruin the aerodynamics of your car and may cause it to become unstable at high speeds. Also, spoilers are merely for looks and, in any case, work only above 175kph.
• Enroll with a professional rally / racing / driving school. This will not only make you a faster driver but also a safer one. To quote a popular Pirelli tagline : Power is nothing without control.
• Ensure that you are with the right tuner. The quality of install and product is most important. Get your work done only by a tuner who has the relevant knowledge, infrastructure and dedication to carry out a high quality installation. The product quality is equally important and it is generally recommended to stick to reputed brands (wherever available). A bad modification can actually make your car slower than in stock tune. Poor reliability may also result from a bad installation, causing a great amount of heart-burn to you.
• Remember that the engine is a very complex system and each component has to work in harmony with everything else. Only then will you benefit from the performance modifications.
• Tune your car via a step-by-step method. This will allow you to gauge improvements in an incremental manner and fine-tune one modification before moving on to the next.
• Choose a “mod-friendly” car to start with. Most Japanese brands like the Hondas and Suzuki’s have tremendous after-market support in terms of parts availability and tuner capability. Simply put, there are some cars which inherently respond better to performance tuning. On the other hand, it is a pointless exercise trying to make heavy cars like the Contessa or a Mahindra Jeep go any faster! Pick your car based on what you want to achieve.
• Beware of cheap “go-fast” gimmicks like the Surbo and electric superchargers, which are nothing but an absolute waste of money. Common sense plays a vital role out here; why would you need a DTM corner slammer on a front wheel drive car that spends most of its time below 120 kph.
• Remember that Vitamin M (or Money!!) runs the show. Tuning your car can be an expensive proposition, so outline a detailed budget before moving on from stage to stage. Not only will the modifications cost you big $$$, but lowered fuel efficiency (almost certain) will cause another dent on your wallet. Some highly-modified cars or engines running an increased compression ratio may also require high-octane fuel to run efficiently.
• Invest in a popular timing device like the G-Tech series. This range of timing equipment will help you to gauge the benefits of your modification, and whether that actually translated into making your car faster.
• Remember that your warranty will almost certainly be nullified, if your car is within the coverage period.
• Think before you try to alleviate the visual appeal of your car via body kits and spoilers. Be warned that a badly-designed body kit will ruin the aerodynamics of your car and may cause it to become unstable at high speeds. Also, spoilers are merely for looks and, in any case, work only above 175kph.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Choosing The Right Set Of Tyres for your Car
Tyres are the fundamental link between your car and the road. A good set of tyres will improve the handling, steering, acceleration and braking of your car, and will make full use of any further modifications performed to your car. This article contains the bare essentials of choosing the right set of tyres for a typical passenger vehicle without getting too technical or specific.
There are five main elements you have to consider when choosing the right set of tyres for your vehicle:
1. Tube-type or tubeless
2. Size of tyre
3. Tread pattern
4. Rubber Compound
5. Overall quality of the tyre
1. Tube-type or tubeless
The answer to this question is very simple. Opt for tubeless tyres. They are safer, more advanced and have a few other small advantages too. You do NOT need to have alloy wheels in order to use tubeless tyres. However, for the best results, your steel wheels should be rust free (or just buy a new set as they are very cheap) and preferably have the insides coated with an anti-rust coating (See Discussion : Tubeless tyres on steel rims).
2. Size
Size is probably the most talked about and controversial part of buying tyres if you are going for an upsize. Tyre sizes are represented in a standard format. For eg. 205/55 R 15, which can be read as follows:
205 (mm) - or 20.5cm is the width of the tread on the tyre.
55 (%) - is the height of the sidewall represented as a percentage of the tread width.
R (Radial) - Radial construction, as almost all tyres are nowadays.
15 (inches) - Is the rim diameter of the wheel on which this tyre is designed to fit.
Choosing the right size can be broken up into three decisions:
Rim size - You have to choose a tyre size designed for exactly the size of rim you plan to mount the tyre on. Larger rims will effectively reduce the sidewall height (making the tyre lower profile) and therefore minimize sidewall flex when cornering, adding to the "on rails" feel, however, this will obviously have an adverse effect on ride quality and comfort.
Tread width - Generally a 0mm-20mm increase in width from the stock size is considered within the realm of sanity in the Indian context. Keep in mind that not only size, but tyre compound also plays a large role in "grippyness". To get a better idea of whether you should upsize your tyre width (if at all) see the chart on this page. Keep in mind that the tyre width also has an ideal wheel width which it works best with, try to keep this in mind otherwise you may end up having stability issues when braking hard or cornering.(Check the Rim-Width calculator to find out if your rims will be ok for your new tyres). If you increase the width of your tyres, you should also confirm that they do not touch the wheelwells of your car on turning the steering wheel all the way and when the car is under full load.
Sidewall Height (or Profile) - After selecting your rim size and your tread width, the objective is to choose a sidewall profile that keeps the overall diameter of the new tyres as close to original as possible. Use this calculator to judge changes in size. Generally a difference in the range of 3-4% is considered acceptable.Keep in mind that a change in overall diameter (OD) of your tyre & wheel combo will cause a slight error in your speedometer readings and odometers readings, which is purely academic. Also your ground clearance may change very slight (half the change in diameter).
There are five main elements you have to consider when choosing the right set of tyres for your vehicle:
1. Tube-type or tubeless
2. Size of tyre
3. Tread pattern
4. Rubber Compound
5. Overall quality of the tyre
1. Tube-type or tubeless
The answer to this question is very simple. Opt for tubeless tyres. They are safer, more advanced and have a few other small advantages too. You do NOT need to have alloy wheels in order to use tubeless tyres. However, for the best results, your steel wheels should be rust free (or just buy a new set as they are very cheap) and preferably have the insides coated with an anti-rust coating (See Discussion : Tubeless tyres on steel rims).
2. Size
Size is probably the most talked about and controversial part of buying tyres if you are going for an upsize. Tyre sizes are represented in a standard format. For eg. 205/55 R 15, which can be read as follows:
205 (mm) - or 20.5cm is the width of the tread on the tyre.
55 (%) - is the height of the sidewall represented as a percentage of the tread width.
R (Radial) - Radial construction, as almost all tyres are nowadays.
15 (inches) - Is the rim diameter of the wheel on which this tyre is designed to fit.
Choosing the right size can be broken up into three decisions:
Rim size - You have to choose a tyre size designed for exactly the size of rim you plan to mount the tyre on. Larger rims will effectively reduce the sidewall height (making the tyre lower profile) and therefore minimize sidewall flex when cornering, adding to the "on rails" feel, however, this will obviously have an adverse effect on ride quality and comfort.
Tread width - Generally a 0mm-20mm increase in width from the stock size is considered within the realm of sanity in the Indian context. Keep in mind that not only size, but tyre compound also plays a large role in "grippyness". To get a better idea of whether you should upsize your tyre width (if at all) see the chart on this page. Keep in mind that the tyre width also has an ideal wheel width which it works best with, try to keep this in mind otherwise you may end up having stability issues when braking hard or cornering.(Check the Rim-Width calculator to find out if your rims will be ok for your new tyres). If you increase the width of your tyres, you should also confirm that they do not touch the wheelwells of your car on turning the steering wheel all the way and when the car is under full load.
Sidewall Height (or Profile) - After selecting your rim size and your tread width, the objective is to choose a sidewall profile that keeps the overall diameter of the new tyres as close to original as possible. Use this calculator to judge changes in size. Generally a difference in the range of 3-4% is considered acceptable.Keep in mind that a change in overall diameter (OD) of your tyre & wheel combo will cause a slight error in your speedometer readings and odometers readings, which is purely academic. Also your ground clearance may change very slight (half the change in diameter).
Saturday, April 11, 2009
how to get whole fuel efficiency
DRIVING STYLE
• Drive smoothly: Aggressive acceleration and braking significantly increase the fuel consumption of your car. Develop a smoother driving style whereby you accelerate and decelerate in a linear and smooth manner. How you drive is very important to FE.
• Avoid clutch riding: Driving with your foot on the clutch results in “wastage” of engine power, which in turn increases your fuel consumption and wears out your clutch rapidly. Do not keep your foot on the clutch, except for when changing gears.
• Minimise Idling: If your car is going to be stationary for an extended period of time, switch the engine off.
• Choosing the right gear: Being in a higher gear at too low a speed, or in a lower gear at a very high speed increase your fuel consumption. It is important to shift up as “early” as possible without straining the engine. For most cars, the ideal shift point would be anywhere between 1500 – 2000 rpm.
• Maintain a constant speed: Varying speeds do not make the car as efficient as a constant speed will. Especially when out on the open road, try to maintain a consistent rate of travel.
• The Optimum speed: Aerodynamic resistance increases exponentially with speed. For e.g. at speeds over a 100 km/h, your car will consume a lot more fuel than at 80 – 90 km/h. Keep within this limit to maximize the FE of your car.
• A safe distance: Maintaining a healthy distance between your car and the one ahead is not only safer, but also leads to higher FE. This gives you a higher reaction time, better visibility and a smoother drive. Aggressive braking has a detrimental effect on your cars fuel efficiency.
• Around the corner: Short trips invariably make your car consume a lot more fuel. The primary reason is that every engine has an optimum running temperature, and very short distances will almost certainly result in your car running at a cold temperature for a majority of the distance.
• Windows drag: At high speeds, open windows can affect the cars aerodynamic efficiency. It is better to keep the windows rolled up and the air-conditioner on at speeds over a 100 km/h.
• Drive smoothly: Aggressive acceleration and braking significantly increase the fuel consumption of your car. Develop a smoother driving style whereby you accelerate and decelerate in a linear and smooth manner. How you drive is very important to FE.
• Avoid clutch riding: Driving with your foot on the clutch results in “wastage” of engine power, which in turn increases your fuel consumption and wears out your clutch rapidly. Do not keep your foot on the clutch, except for when changing gears.
• Minimise Idling: If your car is going to be stationary for an extended period of time, switch the engine off.
• Choosing the right gear: Being in a higher gear at too low a speed, or in a lower gear at a very high speed increase your fuel consumption. It is important to shift up as “early” as possible without straining the engine. For most cars, the ideal shift point would be anywhere between 1500 – 2000 rpm.
• Maintain a constant speed: Varying speeds do not make the car as efficient as a constant speed will. Especially when out on the open road, try to maintain a consistent rate of travel.
• The Optimum speed: Aerodynamic resistance increases exponentially with speed. For e.g. at speeds over a 100 km/h, your car will consume a lot more fuel than at 80 – 90 km/h. Keep within this limit to maximize the FE of your car.
• A safe distance: Maintaining a healthy distance between your car and the one ahead is not only safer, but also leads to higher FE. This gives you a higher reaction time, better visibility and a smoother drive. Aggressive braking has a detrimental effect on your cars fuel efficiency.
• Around the corner: Short trips invariably make your car consume a lot more fuel. The primary reason is that every engine has an optimum running temperature, and very short distances will almost certainly result in your car running at a cold temperature for a majority of the distance.
• Windows drag: At high speeds, open windows can affect the cars aerodynamic efficiency. It is better to keep the windows rolled up and the air-conditioner on at speeds over a 100 km/h.
Friday, April 10, 2009
Thursday, April 9, 2009
ARTICLE: The Team-BHP Guide to BASIC Car Audio
The first rule of car audio is to listen. Differences in taste and car acoustics combined with myriad combinations of head units, speakers and amplifiers make it almost impossible to design the ideal system for everyone. While the perfect system for everybody does not exist, with a little effort it may be possible to find the perfect system for you. Remember: it is your money, your car, your music and your ears. Listen before deciding.
When selecting a system, try to choose a large international brand that is widely available and supported by a good service network, like Alpine, Blaupunkt, JBL, JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer and Sony. We recommend buying only from official distributors that offer a manufacturer’s warranty.
The head unit: Today most head units (HUs) play only CDs – rightly so, since tapes are long past their prime – but there are still a few cassette units available and even some cassette/CD units. Because CD-only HUs are the most common, there is a wider available range of units of differing quality and cost. We recommend buying an HU that is MP3 compatible. Most HUs come with built-in amplifiers, but you should not believe the advertised power rating: it is usually inflated. These amplifiers normally only produce about 8-12 watts RMS, <0.1% distortion and 20 Hz-20 kHz. While this kind of power is not earth shattering, it should be enough for most uses. HU prices start at Rs.6 000.
Amplifiers: Amps are used for two purposes: to reduce the load on the HU power supply so that it performs better, and to increase the sound levels of the car audio system. In most cases 35-40 watts RMS per channel is more than enough, but advertised amplifier specs are often optimistic. You should check to see that amplifier distortion figures are less than (<) 0.1%, 20 Hz-20 kHz and that all channels are driven in parallel. Avoid amps that do not meet these specifications. Prices start at Rs.5 000 for a 4-channel amplifier and at Rs.3 000 for two channels.
Speakers: Speakers contain the fewest parts because they simply convert electrical energy to mechanical – that is why those cones move so much. Many audiophiles believe that speakers have the most influence on overall sound quality.
There are two basic speaker types: coaxials and components. In coaxial speakers the low frequency and high frequency units are molded into a single physical frame. In component speakers the low and high frequency units are separate and include a third part, called the crossover. Component speaker systems are more expensive but offer superior sound quality. To accommodate limited budgets people often use component speakers in the front of the car and coaxial speakers in the rear.
Wires: The quality of wiring is more important than most people think. Choose only wires manufactured by well-recognized, international brands.
Power wires connect the battery to the HU and amplifiers and provide an electrical ground to the body of the car. Cheap power wires may affect sound dynamics and cause other noticeable disturbances, like headlight dimming at high volumes. Good 8-gauge wire will do unless your amplifiers are particularly powerful.
Interconnects connect the HU to the amplifier. Since most amplifiers are installed in the trunk and most HUs in the dash, these wires typically have to run the length of the car. Because the signal generated by the HU is not powerful, these wires are susceptible to noise. By choosing a reliable set of interconnects you will ensure that your speakers play only music, not static or alternator whine.
Speaker wires connect the amplifier to the speakers. In systems that don’t use a separate amplifier, they connect the HU’s built-in amp to the speakers.
Installation: We strongly recommended that you use only certified professionals to install your audio system. Do not use the services of untrained installers who can cause serious damage to a car and audio system.
When selecting a system, try to choose a large international brand that is widely available and supported by a good service network, like Alpine, Blaupunkt, JBL, JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer and Sony. We recommend buying only from official distributors that offer a manufacturer’s warranty.
The head unit: Today most head units (HUs) play only CDs – rightly so, since tapes are long past their prime – but there are still a few cassette units available and even some cassette/CD units. Because CD-only HUs are the most common, there is a wider available range of units of differing quality and cost. We recommend buying an HU that is MP3 compatible. Most HUs come with built-in amplifiers, but you should not believe the advertised power rating: it is usually inflated. These amplifiers normally only produce about 8-12 watts RMS, <0.1% distortion and 20 Hz-20 kHz. While this kind of power is not earth shattering, it should be enough for most uses. HU prices start at Rs.6 000.
Amplifiers: Amps are used for two purposes: to reduce the load on the HU power supply so that it performs better, and to increase the sound levels of the car audio system. In most cases 35-40 watts RMS per channel is more than enough, but advertised amplifier specs are often optimistic. You should check to see that amplifier distortion figures are less than (<) 0.1%, 20 Hz-20 kHz and that all channels are driven in parallel. Avoid amps that do not meet these specifications. Prices start at Rs.5 000 for a 4-channel amplifier and at Rs.3 000 for two channels.
Speakers: Speakers contain the fewest parts because they simply convert electrical energy to mechanical – that is why those cones move so much. Many audiophiles believe that speakers have the most influence on overall sound quality.
There are two basic speaker types: coaxials and components. In coaxial speakers the low frequency and high frequency units are molded into a single physical frame. In component speakers the low and high frequency units are separate and include a third part, called the crossover. Component speaker systems are more expensive but offer superior sound quality. To accommodate limited budgets people often use component speakers in the front of the car and coaxial speakers in the rear.
Wires: The quality of wiring is more important than most people think. Choose only wires manufactured by well-recognized, international brands.
Power wires connect the battery to the HU and amplifiers and provide an electrical ground to the body of the car. Cheap power wires may affect sound dynamics and cause other noticeable disturbances, like headlight dimming at high volumes. Good 8-gauge wire will do unless your amplifiers are particularly powerful.
Interconnects connect the HU to the amplifier. Since most amplifiers are installed in the trunk and most HUs in the dash, these wires typically have to run the length of the car. Because the signal generated by the HU is not powerful, these wires are susceptible to noise. By choosing a reliable set of interconnects you will ensure that your speakers play only music, not static or alternator whine.
Speaker wires connect the amplifier to the speakers. In systems that don’t use a separate amplifier, they connect the HU’s built-in amp to the speakers.
Installation: We strongly recommended that you use only certified professionals to install your audio system. Do not use the services of untrained installers who can cause serious damage to a car and audio system.
ARTICLE: How to modify a diesel car for more performance
Modern diesel engines compete very effectively with petrol engines. Common-rail and some direct-injection turbo diesels are lightning fast, phenomenally fuel efficient and offer phenomenal torque that improves drivability. But is BHP ever enough? If you think performance enhancements are only for petrol engines, think again.
Team-BHP examines how you can get more power from your diesel engine:
1. Power chips and boxes: As simple to install as plug-and-play; in as little as five minutes you can shave upto three seconds from your 0 – 100 acceleration time. Most diesel engines are electronically controlled and a power box will adjust certain control parameters to significantly improve performance. Adding a better intake filter and a free flow exhaust will further improve the performance of your chipped diesel.
2. Turbo-charging: The high compression ratios in diesel engines call for tougher components than those used in petrol engines. As a result, it is easier to install and upgrade turbos on a diesel. Keep in mind that turbo-charging a diesel engine requires an increase in fuel pressure on the fuel pump. Find out more about turbo-charging from this linky.
3. Tweaking fuel pumps: Simple fuel pump tuning will provide more power, albeit at the expense of fuel efficiency. The most frequently modified fuel pumps are manufactured by Bosch. Contact a diesel fuel pump overhauling service to help you tune your pump.
4. Improved inhaling: More air means more oxygen which means more power. Since turbo-charged diesel engines need lots of cool air, RAM intakes offer noticeable performance improvements. The use of performance-grade filters also improves the intake characteristics of turbo-charged diesel engines.
5. Improved exhaling: A free-flowing exhaust leads to the smooth discharge of exhaust gases and results in improved performance. Also, turbo back-pressure is reduced by good exhaust flow.
6. LPG fumigation: Akin to NOS injection in petrol engines, LPG fumigation is the introduction of propane into the air intake of a diesel engine. The difference is that NOS can be used only for short bursts while LPG can be used for longer distances. LPG works like a fuel additive, providing a small amount of fast-burning fuel to aid combustion. It is relatively safe to use: diesel ignites at 350 degrees while LPG ignites at close to 500 degrees, so LPG combustion occurs only after the diesel has ignited. LPG kits for diesels are similar to the LPG kits used on normal petrol cars, except that they are boost-referenced as rather than vacuum-referenced. A properly installed LPG fumigation system will result in a better-running diesel engine. Recommended links for more information are mrsharkey and xtremediesel.
Team-BHP examines how you can get more power from your diesel engine:
1. Power chips and boxes: As simple to install as plug-and-play; in as little as five minutes you can shave upto three seconds from your 0 – 100 acceleration time. Most diesel engines are electronically controlled and a power box will adjust certain control parameters to significantly improve performance. Adding a better intake filter and a free flow exhaust will further improve the performance of your chipped diesel.
2. Turbo-charging: The high compression ratios in diesel engines call for tougher components than those used in petrol engines. As a result, it is easier to install and upgrade turbos on a diesel. Keep in mind that turbo-charging a diesel engine requires an increase in fuel pressure on the fuel pump. Find out more about turbo-charging from this linky.
3. Tweaking fuel pumps: Simple fuel pump tuning will provide more power, albeit at the expense of fuel efficiency. The most frequently modified fuel pumps are manufactured by Bosch. Contact a diesel fuel pump overhauling service to help you tune your pump.
4. Improved inhaling: More air means more oxygen which means more power. Since turbo-charged diesel engines need lots of cool air, RAM intakes offer noticeable performance improvements. The use of performance-grade filters also improves the intake characteristics of turbo-charged diesel engines.
5. Improved exhaling: A free-flowing exhaust leads to the smooth discharge of exhaust gases and results in improved performance. Also, turbo back-pressure is reduced by good exhaust flow.
6. LPG fumigation: Akin to NOS injection in petrol engines, LPG fumigation is the introduction of propane into the air intake of a diesel engine. The difference is that NOS can be used only for short bursts while LPG can be used for longer distances. LPG works like a fuel additive, providing a small amount of fast-burning fuel to aid combustion. It is relatively safe to use: diesel ignites at 350 degrees while LPG ignites at close to 500 degrees, so LPG combustion occurs only after the diesel has ignited. LPG kits for diesels are similar to the LPG kits used on normal petrol cars, except that they are boost-referenced as rather than vacuum-referenced. A properly installed LPG fumigation system will result in a better-running diesel engine. Recommended links for more information are mrsharkey and xtremediesel.
ARTICLE: CNG vs LPG Comparision
Petrol prices are sky rocketing. Does this leave you with Diesel as the only economical option? NO! Times have changed! Presenting the new age car fuel alternatives – CNG and LPG; apart from being lighter on your pocket, these options are also environment-friendly.
Team-BHP explains the pros and cons of each fuel, as also about the issue as a whole.
With the Indian government providing several benefits on CNG and LPG, it is no surprise that buses and taxis in several metros have switched over. From easy availability to high subsidies, the government is providing complete support to these fuel preferences. As shown in the recent budget, bio-diesel is also given political preference now. Naturally, auto manufacturers have taken advantage of this and they now offer factory fitted options. However, some manufacturers like Maruti Suzuki prefer LPG where as others like Chevy & Ford opt for CNG.
Why opt for Gas?:
• Lowest running costs (compared to other fuel alternatives like diesel)
• Cleaner emissions
• Better resale value (in the case of factory-fitted kits only)
• Complete manufacturer-support available
• Any time switch over to petrol is possible
Factors that may hold you back:
• Initial investment in setup
• Reduced boot space
• Compromised power delivery
• Limited availability (compared to petrol and diesel). Few highways have consistent supplies. Also, some towns may not have any supply at all.
• Longer waits at the fuel pump
Are Natural Gas powered vehicles safe?
Natural Gas is an ideal fuel source for many reasons, including safety. Natural Gas is lighter than air. This means that it will not puddle (like petrol) which is heavier than air. Instead, Natural Gas will rise and dissipate in the atmosphere. Natural gas also has a higher ignition temperature. This means that it is much harder to ignite. Also the storage systems used for CNG and LPG are stronger than the petrol tanks found on cars and trucks today.
Team-BHP explains the pros and cons of each fuel, as also about the issue as a whole.
With the Indian government providing several benefits on CNG and LPG, it is no surprise that buses and taxis in several metros have switched over. From easy availability to high subsidies, the government is providing complete support to these fuel preferences. As shown in the recent budget, bio-diesel is also given political preference now. Naturally, auto manufacturers have taken advantage of this and they now offer factory fitted options. However, some manufacturers like Maruti Suzuki prefer LPG where as others like Chevy & Ford opt for CNG.
Why opt for Gas?:
• Lowest running costs (compared to other fuel alternatives like diesel)
• Cleaner emissions
• Better resale value (in the case of factory-fitted kits only)
• Complete manufacturer-support available
• Any time switch over to petrol is possible
Factors that may hold you back:
• Initial investment in setup
• Reduced boot space
• Compromised power delivery
• Limited availability (compared to petrol and diesel). Few highways have consistent supplies. Also, some towns may not have any supply at all.
• Longer waits at the fuel pump
Are Natural Gas powered vehicles safe?
Natural Gas is an ideal fuel source for many reasons, including safety. Natural Gas is lighter than air. This means that it will not puddle (like petrol) which is heavier than air. Instead, Natural Gas will rise and dissipate in the atmosphere. Natural gas also has a higher ignition temperature. This means that it is much harder to ignite. Also the storage systems used for CNG and LPG are stronger than the petrol tanks found on cars and trucks today.
The Fiat Linea test drive thread
When I first saw the car, I was a little apprehensive, which I still am because it looked too rounded and long for 8 Lakh cars, it reminded me of a catfish, with its snout stuck out like that.
Attachment 84399
The very next day after the Training commenced we were given the Details of the car , it's competition that Fiat Mainly Targeted was SX4,Fiesta,ANHC & the Verna. So along with the Linea the SX4, the Verna & Fiesta were there, as the ANHC wasn't launched then it wasn't available then.
The Car is sure loaded to the gills with features, If you guys go through the other Linea threads we can get a clear-cut idea of all the features in the car. The Linea on the road felt planted, might be due to it's low squatted stance, while in the car the whole car feels really low, the Power window switches and door locking switches are situated on the door armrest and all these felt enveloping around me, but the cabin was wide enough, to not feel claustrophobic, the Blue and me and MY CAR Function Switches are located on the steering wheel and also on the dashboard on the extreme right side under the steering wheel.
Attachment 84379
And no the Car haven't been stripped of any of it's features all that you see in the picture is there in the car.
The Overall fit and finish of the product seemed good, but still there were some grouches that can be seen in the car like the Steering column cover which had many unfinished rough edges and panel gaps, But the Steering wheel was Very good to hold and it had really good shape. The Rear seat space was "okay" and the seat reclining angle was very comfy, the ride in the back was unbelievable comfortable especially after getting rides in the competition cars. Even when going over speedbrakers or large potholes never did the Linea lose it's composure or give out loud noises when the suspensions bottomed out with 5 heavyweights in the car. The Ground Clearance of 161mm for the diesel car maybe a little problem but on the bright side the Skoda Octys are running around with 138mm GC , so that might not be much of a problem. The Petrol car's Ground Clearance is 165mm.
The Power Delivery from the Diesel Engines was smooth and It was very quite inside, outside there isn't much noise except for the usual Fiat Engine cooling fan which is soooo loud and it makes a huge racket just like in the Palio/Uno etc. Also the Fan's angle of deflection is same as that in the Uno/Palio which means all the Dust/dirt that is on the ground gets blown up and there is something like a sandstorm when the car is around. Typical Fiat Problem. Other than that the Engines were quite good, The diesel engine's Turbo lag is very low or unnoticeable, I just kept on flooring the throttle expecting the Swoosh like in the Swift/Palios but I was amazed when nothing like that happened till the redline at 5000RPM. The Diesel felt quick enough for that car, Maybe A Pete's Tuning box can be of much help to this car. The Petrol Engine felt Creamy Smooth and it sounded sexy, and there was adequate amounts of torque too but somehow, it felt underpowered to my taste after all 94.2PS is not something to write home about.
So the only question that remains now is, Is the Linea a better buy than the All New Honda City? Except for the engine everything is yes, then again there is no auto transmission even as an option, the engine is underpowered when compared to the ANHC,The built quality though much more solid than a Honda any day lacks the quality of the Honda. The service will be another aspect which we will have to wait and see, but I don't expect any miracles to happen in this part of the story, all the parts of this car is said to be heavily subsided up to 40% ,localization is still going on to keep the affordability factor in hand, the service intervals are quite long at 15000km between a service, the warranty is amazing at 80,000km or 1.5 years which can be extended to 3yrs or 1.5Lakh Kilometers.
The other cars like the SX4,Verna or the Fiesta don't even come into the picture in my opinion because of the unbelievable pricing of this car. The SX4 being too bland, the Verna Being bouncy, the Fiesta being too cramped, But it's just my opinion. This car like all the other cars when launched will have its own honeymoon period, when it will be selling like hotcakes for no particular reason, let’s wait and see that's all that I can say.
This is the Make or Break point for Fiat, If all goes well we can see the Grande Punto in 4 months time I guess ,but now your guess is as good as mine. As one of the Fiat India Production head said "If the Linea doesn’t do as well as we expected we can just pack up and leave".
Cheerscheers:
Muneem
Ex-Fiat Guy.
Attachment 84399
The very next day after the Training commenced we were given the Details of the car , it's competition that Fiat Mainly Targeted was SX4,Fiesta,ANHC & the Verna. So along with the Linea the SX4, the Verna & Fiesta were there, as the ANHC wasn't launched then it wasn't available then.
The Car is sure loaded to the gills with features, If you guys go through the other Linea threads we can get a clear-cut idea of all the features in the car. The Linea on the road felt planted, might be due to it's low squatted stance, while in the car the whole car feels really low, the Power window switches and door locking switches are situated on the door armrest and all these felt enveloping around me, but the cabin was wide enough, to not feel claustrophobic, the Blue and me and MY CAR Function Switches are located on the steering wheel and also on the dashboard on the extreme right side under the steering wheel.
Attachment 84379
And no the Car haven't been stripped of any of it's features all that you see in the picture is there in the car.
The Overall fit and finish of the product seemed good, but still there were some grouches that can be seen in the car like the Steering column cover which had many unfinished rough edges and panel gaps, But the Steering wheel was Very good to hold and it had really good shape. The Rear seat space was "okay" and the seat reclining angle was very comfy, the ride in the back was unbelievable comfortable especially after getting rides in the competition cars. Even when going over speedbrakers or large potholes never did the Linea lose it's composure or give out loud noises when the suspensions bottomed out with 5 heavyweights in the car. The Ground Clearance of 161mm for the diesel car maybe a little problem but on the bright side the Skoda Octys are running around with 138mm GC , so that might not be much of a problem. The Petrol car's Ground Clearance is 165mm.
The Power Delivery from the Diesel Engines was smooth and It was very quite inside, outside there isn't much noise except for the usual Fiat Engine cooling fan which is soooo loud and it makes a huge racket just like in the Palio/Uno etc. Also the Fan's angle of deflection is same as that in the Uno/Palio which means all the Dust/dirt that is on the ground gets blown up and there is something like a sandstorm when the car is around. Typical Fiat Problem. Other than that the Engines were quite good, The diesel engine's Turbo lag is very low or unnoticeable, I just kept on flooring the throttle expecting the Swoosh like in the Swift/Palios but I was amazed when nothing like that happened till the redline at 5000RPM. The Diesel felt quick enough for that car, Maybe A Pete's Tuning box can be of much help to this car. The Petrol Engine felt Creamy Smooth and it sounded sexy, and there was adequate amounts of torque too but somehow, it felt underpowered to my taste after all 94.2PS is not something to write home about.
So the only question that remains now is, Is the Linea a better buy than the All New Honda City? Except for the engine everything is yes, then again there is no auto transmission even as an option, the engine is underpowered when compared to the ANHC,The built quality though much more solid than a Honda any day lacks the quality of the Honda. The service will be another aspect which we will have to wait and see, but I don't expect any miracles to happen in this part of the story, all the parts of this car is said to be heavily subsided up to 40% ,localization is still going on to keep the affordability factor in hand, the service intervals are quite long at 15000km between a service, the warranty is amazing at 80,000km or 1.5 years which can be extended to 3yrs or 1.5Lakh Kilometers.
The other cars like the SX4,Verna or the Fiesta don't even come into the picture in my opinion because of the unbelievable pricing of this car. The SX4 being too bland, the Verna Being bouncy, the Fiesta being too cramped, But it's just my opinion. This car like all the other cars when launched will have its own honeymoon period, when it will be selling like hotcakes for no particular reason, let’s wait and see that's all that I can say.
This is the Make or Break point for Fiat, If all goes well we can see the Grande Punto in 4 months time I guess ,but now your guess is as good as mine. As one of the Fiat India Production head said "If the Linea doesn’t do as well as we expected we can just pack up and leave".
Cheerscheers:
Muneem
Ex-Fiat Guy.
new ANHC A/T review
it’s been a month since I got my new city automatic and thought I would start a review on my ownership with it.
The car has completed 2300 kms and the first service has been done last week.
It’s been an absolute pleasure to drive it around the city and on the highways. The auto tranny is very useful in the bumper to bumper traffic. The auto eases and makes life easier to drive in the mad traffic out there and it is effortlessly exciting to drive it in the city. Shift it to the ‘D’ mode to enjoy a smooth and comfortable drive in the city traffic. With almost 70km daily driving in city, this is exactly what the doctor ordered!
The engine is smooth as a butter, very very silent with none or very little vibrations getting inside the cabin. The cabin is well insulated from the outside noise as well. Could not hear any wind noise inside the cabin even at speeds above 100 kms/hr.
On the highways, shift into the S mode or use the paddle shift and you are rewarded with a powerful acceleration from the machine. She gets through her paces real quick. Engaging the paddleshift anytime to get the surge in acceleration is exciting.
Redlining her is joy. The engine starts to get vocal at about 3500 RPM and by the time it crosses 5500 RPM you are greeted with the typical Honda snarl, the engine note is real music to the ears. But I have heard the OHC vtec’s growl much louder!!
Managed to get her to 160 Km/Hr effortlessly in the ‘D’ Mode. The car is very stable at high speeds. The aerodynamic nature of the car helps prevents any loud boomy wind noise at high speeds. You hardly realize what speed you are doing until you glance at the Speedo which shows the motor spinning, lazily at 3000 RPM and the speed is 140 Km/Hr!!
The auto transmission can be driven in 3 ways,
1)D mode - engage and the machine decides, when to shift cogs. A gentle tab at the accelerator pedal, initiates the kickdown to give more acceleration if required. Apart from this you can temporarily override the auto and get instant power at the click of your finger! Using the paddle shift. It returns to auto mode after sometime.A mode where you leave on time and reach on time!
2)S mode - engage this mode for some spirited driving. The gear change in this mode is at higher RPM, more acceleration, engine vocal most of the time, snarling as the tacho begins to climb. Engaging the paddle shift in this mode, will bring the car in a full manual mode. Start late, reach early mode!
3)Paddle shift - engage this mode to unleash hell. Yes!! you get to exploit the whole revv band of the engine , and the revvs are held till the redline and more, after it hits revv limiter the car does give some kind of slight jerks to let you know she is not happy, you upshift and she is happy again! The car remains in manual mode till you engage the D mode. This mode is most exciting to drive. Haven’t used the mode, much as of yet.Upshifts are fully manual and the downshifts are semi auto.You are already there mode!
The paddle shifts are fun to use, especially in the Ghats. Putting the car to test on winding roads was a revelation and she performed much better than I expected. The car handles well on the bends at decent high speeds.
The steering is also feels nice at high speeds; a hydraulic or equivalent would have been perfect. The steering is superlight at slow speeds and as the speed increases it sort of stiffens. negotiating turns and lane changes or taking sharp turns or some hard cornering It does not feel scary.
The suspension is on the firmer side, which aides handling. It bottoms out on big speed breakers with full load and every time it does that my heart skips a beat!! Very annoying! Ride quality is pretty decent and nothing to boast about. The suspension being firm shake you a little bit on crater ridden roads.
The MRF rubbers it came with provide a good grip but are noisy at high speeds. An upsize/upgrade will make the cornering more confidence inspiring.
The ride is a little bouncy on some uneven concrete roads, not sure if the tyres are to be blamed here!
Brakes with more bite could have been better!
Music system, with the usb thingy is quite useful as I have lots of music in mp3’s.
Again the AC, The leg space, boot space are decent and nothing to complain about.
Seats are quite comfortable in the fronts as well as the rear. I love the driving position in the car and it is spot on.
I have done 2 highway trips in the car and both occasion blasted the engine and high revving it most of the time. The fuel economy was about 11 +. In the city it’s averaging about 11. All the time with 100% AC. Sounds ok to me.
To summarize on a positive note I can say that the I-Vtec Engine coupled with the Auto transmission offers a great driving dynamics in a comfortable manner with a low NVH makes it a great driving machine.
I see lot of features is offered in the other Asian countries like Thailand and Malaysia missing in the Indian version. Like rear seat 60:40 split and a feature to recline the rear seat further. What was Honda thinking of not offering these features in India, how would split/reclining rear seats have increased costs for Honda!!
No ACC and alloys being the other major negatives.
My other ride, is a ford fusion, which was my daily driver till the Honda came, it is nearing 50 K, is a hoot to drive and have to say that the stick rules!! For comfort and effortless driving the auto has an edge though.
I would use this thread to continue updating the ownership experience.
uploading few pics.
Thanks and regards,
The car has completed 2300 kms and the first service has been done last week.
It’s been an absolute pleasure to drive it around the city and on the highways. The auto tranny is very useful in the bumper to bumper traffic. The auto eases and makes life easier to drive in the mad traffic out there and it is effortlessly exciting to drive it in the city. Shift it to the ‘D’ mode to enjoy a smooth and comfortable drive in the city traffic. With almost 70km daily driving in city, this is exactly what the doctor ordered!
The engine is smooth as a butter, very very silent with none or very little vibrations getting inside the cabin. The cabin is well insulated from the outside noise as well. Could not hear any wind noise inside the cabin even at speeds above 100 kms/hr.
On the highways, shift into the S mode or use the paddle shift and you are rewarded with a powerful acceleration from the machine. She gets through her paces real quick. Engaging the paddleshift anytime to get the surge in acceleration is exciting.
Redlining her is joy. The engine starts to get vocal at about 3500 RPM and by the time it crosses 5500 RPM you are greeted with the typical Honda snarl, the engine note is real music to the ears. But I have heard the OHC vtec’s growl much louder!!
Managed to get her to 160 Km/Hr effortlessly in the ‘D’ Mode. The car is very stable at high speeds. The aerodynamic nature of the car helps prevents any loud boomy wind noise at high speeds. You hardly realize what speed you are doing until you glance at the Speedo which shows the motor spinning, lazily at 3000 RPM and the speed is 140 Km/Hr!!
The auto transmission can be driven in 3 ways,
1)D mode - engage and the machine decides, when to shift cogs. A gentle tab at the accelerator pedal, initiates the kickdown to give more acceleration if required. Apart from this you can temporarily override the auto and get instant power at the click of your finger! Using the paddle shift. It returns to auto mode after sometime.A mode where you leave on time and reach on time!
2)S mode - engage this mode for some spirited driving. The gear change in this mode is at higher RPM, more acceleration, engine vocal most of the time, snarling as the tacho begins to climb. Engaging the paddle shift in this mode, will bring the car in a full manual mode. Start late, reach early mode!
3)Paddle shift - engage this mode to unleash hell. Yes!! you get to exploit the whole revv band of the engine , and the revvs are held till the redline and more, after it hits revv limiter the car does give some kind of slight jerks to let you know she is not happy, you upshift and she is happy again! The car remains in manual mode till you engage the D mode. This mode is most exciting to drive. Haven’t used the mode, much as of yet.Upshifts are fully manual and the downshifts are semi auto.You are already there mode!
The paddle shifts are fun to use, especially in the Ghats. Putting the car to test on winding roads was a revelation and she performed much better than I expected. The car handles well on the bends at decent high speeds.
The steering is also feels nice at high speeds; a hydraulic or equivalent would have been perfect. The steering is superlight at slow speeds and as the speed increases it sort of stiffens. negotiating turns and lane changes or taking sharp turns or some hard cornering It does not feel scary.
The suspension is on the firmer side, which aides handling. It bottoms out on big speed breakers with full load and every time it does that my heart skips a beat!! Very annoying! Ride quality is pretty decent and nothing to boast about. The suspension being firm shake you a little bit on crater ridden roads.
The MRF rubbers it came with provide a good grip but are noisy at high speeds. An upsize/upgrade will make the cornering more confidence inspiring.
The ride is a little bouncy on some uneven concrete roads, not sure if the tyres are to be blamed here!
Brakes with more bite could have been better!
Music system, with the usb thingy is quite useful as I have lots of music in mp3’s.
Again the AC, The leg space, boot space are decent and nothing to complain about.
Seats are quite comfortable in the fronts as well as the rear. I love the driving position in the car and it is spot on.
I have done 2 highway trips in the car and both occasion blasted the engine and high revving it most of the time. The fuel economy was about 11 +. In the city it’s averaging about 11. All the time with 100% AC. Sounds ok to me.
To summarize on a positive note I can say that the I-Vtec Engine coupled with the Auto transmission offers a great driving dynamics in a comfortable manner with a low NVH makes it a great driving machine.
I see lot of features is offered in the other Asian countries like Thailand and Malaysia missing in the Indian version. Like rear seat 60:40 split and a feature to recline the rear seat further. What was Honda thinking of not offering these features in India, how would split/reclining rear seats have increased costs for Honda!!
No ACC and alloys being the other major negatives.
My other ride, is a ford fusion, which was my daily driver till the Honda came, it is nearing 50 K, is a hoot to drive and have to say that the stick rules!! For comfort and effortless driving the auto has an edge though.
I would use this thread to continue updating the ownership experience.
uploading few pics.
Thanks and regards,
how to wash your lovely car?
Regular washing and cleaning:
Don’t pour buckets of water on your car. It’s of no use, and a serious offence when it comes to water conservation. Honestly speaking, you don’t need more than three buckets of water to clean your car on a normal day.
Use a separate cloth for the body and for the wheels. The yellow/brown shade cloth that we get at traffic signals is useless. Instead, buy the other cloth (mostly blue) that has a typical Indian towel feel. Dip that new cloth in boiling water with detergent to get rid of unwanted starch and lint. This will also help it to become softer. Your new cloth is now ready to be used.
1. Soak the cloth in water (don’t squeeze) and wipe your car’s body with a light hand. Once you’re through with washing the entire car, clean the cloth in fresh water and start wiping the body dry. A good soft cloth should remove all watermarks from the body. Take one portion of the body at a time.
2. With a separate cloth; wash inside the mudguard thoroughly (atleast twice a week), the running board (also known as the door panel) and under the bumpers (not visible to most people).
3. Use a vacuum cleaner to clean the floor carpet at least once a week. Wash floor mats regularly, if need be.
4. After a long trip or the monsoons, take the car to a service station and wash the under body. Rubber coating helps (at the cost of spending INR 4000 to INR 5000). Additional value of the rubber treatment is its
noise-deadening quality.
Few points to remember:
- Don’t keep washing your car under the sun.
- Pour water on your windshield to loosen dust and hard particles.
- Try to avoid hard water (from the bore well) as much as possible. It’s the fastest way to make your paint fade and to invite corrosion.
- Use newspaper (black & white) to clean the glass.
- Remove road tar spots with diesel-soaked cloth.
- Alloys (coated with brake pad dust) should be washed with detergent. Use a soft toothbrush to clean those hard-to-reach areas.
Don’t pour buckets of water on your car. It’s of no use, and a serious offence when it comes to water conservation. Honestly speaking, you don’t need more than three buckets of water to clean your car on a normal day.
Use a separate cloth for the body and for the wheels. The yellow/brown shade cloth that we get at traffic signals is useless. Instead, buy the other cloth (mostly blue) that has a typical Indian towel feel. Dip that new cloth in boiling water with detergent to get rid of unwanted starch and lint. This will also help it to become softer. Your new cloth is now ready to be used.
1. Soak the cloth in water (don’t squeeze) and wipe your car’s body with a light hand. Once you’re through with washing the entire car, clean the cloth in fresh water and start wiping the body dry. A good soft cloth should remove all watermarks from the body. Take one portion of the body at a time.
2. With a separate cloth; wash inside the mudguard thoroughly (atleast twice a week), the running board (also known as the door panel) and under the bumpers (not visible to most people).
3. Use a vacuum cleaner to clean the floor carpet at least once a week. Wash floor mats regularly, if need be.
4. After a long trip or the monsoons, take the car to a service station and wash the under body. Rubber coating helps (at the cost of spending INR 4000 to INR 5000). Additional value of the rubber treatment is its
noise-deadening quality.
Few points to remember:
- Don’t keep washing your car under the sun.
- Pour water on your windshield to loosen dust and hard particles.
- Try to avoid hard water (from the bore well) as much as possible. It’s the fastest way to make your paint fade and to invite corrosion.
- Use newspaper (black & white) to clean the glass.
- Remove road tar spots with diesel-soaked cloth.
- Alloys (coated with brake pad dust) should be washed with detergent. Use a soft toothbrush to clean those hard-to-reach areas.
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